Picking the Perfect Gemstone: Gemstone Meanings & Names
Gemstones
Andalusite
Jul 20th
ANDALUSITE

| ANDALUSITE | Pleochroism |
| Origins | Brazil, Mozambique & Sri Lanka |
| Colors Found | Brown, green, orange, red & white |
| Family | Andalusite |
| Hardness | 7.50 |
| Refractive Index | 1.62 – 1.65 |
| Relative Density | 3.05 – 3.20 |
Andalusite, an aluminum silicate, derives its name from the site of its discovery, Almeria in the southern Spanish province of Andalusia.
While Andalusite’s color play has been compared to Alexandrite, this is technically incorrect, as pleochroic (displaying different colors in different directions) gemstones like Andalusite feature all their colors at once, whereas Alexandrite only changes color in different light sources.
Legends and lore
Some Andalusite crystals have carbonaceous inclusions, arranged so that in cross section they form a dark cross. This variety is called “Chiastolite” (named after the Greek word for cross) and sometimes referred to in ancient texts as “lapis crucifer,” meaning “cross stone.” Chiastolite is found in schist rock formations near the town of Santiago de Compostela, northwest Spain, and many amulets of the “cross stone” were once sold to pilgrims. Chiastolite is often mentioned as a gemstone of protection and was once used to thwart evil eye curses.
Andalusite is considered by crystal healers to be a gemstone that enhances intellect, problem solving abilities and mental clarity. It is also mentioned as being conducive to the receipt of messages from the netherworld.
Just the facts
Andalusite is a polymorph with two other minerals, Kyanite and Sillimanite. Andalusite typically occurs in thermally metamorphosed pelitic rocks, and in pelites that have been regionally metamorphosed under low-pressure conditions.
It also occurs, together with Corundum, Tourmaline, Topaz and other minerals in some pegmatites.
When cutting strongly pleochroic gemstones (Iolite, Tanzanite, Kunzite, etc.), lapidaries typically try to minimize the pleochroism and maximize the single most attractive color. Interestingly, Andalusite is the opposite, as all the colors visible in different directions are attractive. Cutters therefore try to orient the gem to get a pleasing mix of its orange, brown, yellow, green and golden colors. When cut successfully, Andalusite looks unlike any other gemstone, displaying patterns of color dancing around its facets.
Ametrine
Jul 20th
AMETRINE

| AMETRINE | Multicolor gem |
| Origins | Bolivia |
| Colors Found | Golden & purple |
| Family | Quartz |
| Hardness | 7.00 |
| Refractive Index | 1.54 – 1.55 |
| Relative Density | 2.65 |
Ametrine is one of the world’s most unusual gemstones in that it is actually two gems in one! Multicolor Ametrine blends the golden sunburst of Citrine with the purple sunset of Amethyst.
Legends and lore
Ametrine is said to posses all the metaphysical benefits of both Amethyst and Citrine, as well its own unique properties. Ametrine is said to aid in meditation, relieve tension, disperse negativity and help eliminate prejudice.
Just the facts
The unusual color variation found in Ametrine is due to the presence of iron in different oxidation states within the crystalline structure. Exactly how this occurs is not fully understood.
The world’s main source of Ametrine, the Bolivian Anahi Mine became famous in the 17th century when a Spanish Conquistador received it as a dowry after marrying an Ayoreos princess named Anahi.
Ametrine has only been readily available to the consumer market since 1980 when material from the Anahi Mine in Bolivia began to appear in larger quantities. Before this it was considered to be quite unusual and was also known as Amethyst-Citrine Quartz, Trystine or Golden Amethyst.
The color split is usually highlighted by cutting the gem into long shapes ideal for rings, earrings and necklaces. Larger Ametrine gemstones make particularly enchanting pendants, perfect for evening wear. A fine split in the colors and color intensity are the most important aspects to consider when evaluating Ametrine.Ametrine is an amazing gemstone with a split personality. When handcrafting Ametrine jewelry we always try to ensure that both the Amethyst and the Citrine are clearly visible to the naked eye.
Amethyst
Jul 20th
AMETHYST

| AMETHYST | February’s birthstone |
| Origins | Brazil, Kenya, Madagascar, Uruguay & Zambia |
| Colors Found | Pinkish purple to purple |
| Family | Quartz |
| Hardness | 7.00 |
| Refractive Index | 1.54 – 1.55 |
| Relative Density | 2.65 |
Dionysus, known for his love of grape juice, was the Greek god of wine; however after a few goblets he became a little confrontational. One day in the forest with goblet in hand, the tipsy Dionysus took insult from a passing mortal that refused to show him respect. The incident provoked his wrath and Dionysus swore revenge on the next mortal that he saw?
Along came Amethyst, a beautiful young maiden on her way to pay tribute to the goddess Diana. Dionysus targeted Amethyst as the object of his revenge, and with the snap of his fingers, he summoned two ferocious tigers to devour the girl. As Dionysus sat back to enjoy the spectacle, Amethyst cried out to her goddess Diana. Seeing what was about to happen, Diana transformed Amethyst into a glimmering pure white Quartz statue thus protecting her from the ferocious tigers. Moved with guilt, Dionysus realized the ruthlessness of his actions and began to weep with sorrow. As the tears dripped into his goblet, Dionysus collapsed, spilling the tear-tainted wine onto the statue of Amethyst. The white Quartz absorbed the wine’s color creating the colored gem that we refer to today as Amethyst, the gemstone of the gods.
Legends and lore
With the mythology surrounding the origin of Amethyst, it is perhaps fitting that it was once considered a talisman to prevent drunkenness, which explains why wine goblets were once made from this gem. As the ancient Greeks often playfully manipulated words from other languages, it is possible that they jokingly converted the Hebrew word for a purple gem, “achlamath,” to the Greek word “amethustos,” meaning “not drunk,” from which the modern name for Amethyst is derived. In legend, it is usually taken literally, as if the Greeks really thought Amethyst would prevent drunkenness.
Amethyst’s shades of purple have served as a symbol of royalty throughout history. Pharaohs, kings and queens, as well as leading lights in religious sects have long treasured it because of its rich, royal color.
Interestingly, this fascination with the color purple dates back to Roman times when generals celebrating triumphs (and later emperors who never fought a battle) got to wear a “toga picta” (a bright purple toga with gold embroidery).
Because Amethyst was thought to encourage celibacy (it was believed to have a sobering effect not only on drunkards, but also upon those overexcited by passion), Amethyst was very important in the decoration of Catholic churches in the Middle Ages. Considered to be the “papal stone,” even today bishops still wear Amethyst rings.
Many other qualities were attributed to Amethyst in the 15th century. Leonardo Da Vinci wrote that Amethyst was able to dissipate evil thoughts and quicken the intelligence. It was also believed to render people shrewd in business matters, preserve soldiers from harm and assist hunters in capturing wild animals.
The history of adornment can be traced back to the Minoan period in Greece (circa 2500 BC), where Amethyst has been found as polished cabochons set into gold rings. Popular in the 19th century, Amethyst was a favorite gem in art nouveau jewelry.
Just the facts
Colored by iron, Amethyst is a variety of macrocrystalline Quartz that occurs in transparent pastel roses to deep purples.
Like many other gemstones, the quality of Amethyst varies according to its source. Amethyst from the Americas can be found in large sizes as opposed to African Amethyst (typically mined in Madagascar and Zambia), which is sometimes small but carries a higher saturation in color. Dark, highly saturated Amethyst is also found in Australia. The now historic Siberian variety is deep purple with occasional red and blue flashes and commands the highest price. However, the most prolific origin is Brazil, and if we were to believe Dionysus’ wine was indeed the source of its color, Brazilian Amethyst would have been born from the finest vintages.
First appearing in Europe in 1727, Brazilian Amethyst soon became highly fashionable and expensive. Amethyst was very popular in France and England during the 18th century and many affluent families invested large amounts of money in this gemstone. For example, a necklace of Amethysts was purchased at a very high price for Queen Charlotte (1744-1818), wife of George III of England.
The chief mining areas for Brazilian Amethyst are Minas Gerais, Bahia and Maraba. Neighboring Uruguay offers spectacularly beautiful varieties of Amethyst that were only discovered a few years ago.
Rose de France Amethyst (also known as Lavender Amethyst) is the name for Brazilian Amethyst of a pastel lilac pinkish hue. Rose de France Amethyst was a very popular Victorian gem and while Rose de France Amethyst frequently appears in antique jewelry, it is currently experiencing a revival in popularity as part of a general awakening to the beauty of pastel gems.
Multi Color Amethyst beautifully melds the regal purple lavenders of Amethyst with the ice whites of White Quartz in one gem. Multi Color Amethyst occurs because of environmental changes during formation. At different times, the color-causing element (iron) was incorporated into the crystal, causing different color layers. Purposely cut to showcase this feature, Multi Color Amethyst is generally judged by the balanced contrast between its colors. Cutting the gem so both colors show is sometimes challenging for cutters. While notoriously difficult to cut consistently, a well cut multicolored gem is a real delight.
Amber
Jul 20th
AMBER

| AMBER | Preserves prehistoric life forms |
| Origins | Russia |
| Colors Found | Golden yellow, pale yellow, blue, green, deep cherry red to dark brown |
| Family | Organics |
| Hardness | 2.00 – 2.50 |
| Refractive Index | 1.53 – 1.55 |
| Relative Density | 1.05 – 1.09 |
Amber is the ancient and fossilized resin of trees that grew in forests millions of years ago. Over the eons, chemical and physical changes occurred, fossilizing the resin to produce the Amber we know today.
Research indicates that Amber ranges from about 2 million to 360 million years in age although most gem quality Amber ranges from 5 million to 50 million years.
Amber is a unique gem. In addition to its beauty, Amber bequeaths humankind valuable scientific data through its ability to act as a window on the past. Its unique ability to preserve the organic tissues of prehistoric life forms is valued by both gem collectors and scientists.
Legends and lore
In classical times, Amber was used medicinally and was also believed to offer a magical light for the deceased as they progressed through the underworld. Given this association, Amber was once believed to provide magicians and sorcerers with special powers. Other attributes associated with Amber include love, strength, luck, healing, protection and the ability to calm stressed nerves.
Just the facts
When you rub Amber, static electricity is generated. In fact, the word electricity is derived from the ancient Greek word for Amber, “elektron” or “sun made.” Although Amber is a fossilized plant resin that generally consists of organic carbon, hydrogen and oxygen structures, the composition varies depending on the type of parental plant species.
The process and transformation of tree resin into Amber is not fully understood. However, there are several elements which are recognized as being essential, namely molecular polymerization (the combination of many molecules to form a more complex product of higher molecular weight), evaporation of turpenes (volatile oils ? volatiles are substances that can be readily vaporized), heat and pressure.
While the rate of transition from tree resin to Amber is often represented as a linear process, in reality it is variable. There are many different types of fossilized tree resin found all over the world. Each deposit has unique chemical components, but can physically appear almost identical. In some cases, detailed chemical analysis is required to determine geographic origin. Following its secretion tree resin immediately begins to lose its original plasticity and harden. There are several forms of commercially exploited resin including Ambergris, Arabic Gum, Dammar, Frankincense, Gum Lac (sometimes called Shellac), Kauri Gum, Mastic, Myrrh, Rosin and Sandarach.
Copal is a more mature form of resin. The word Copal comes from the Spanish word “copalli,” which means incense, an actual use of Copal. Polymerization has now progressed significantly through the body of the resin. In some cases the surface of the Copal has fractured and crazed due to surface shrinkage prompted through the initial evaporation of turpenes, which can also commence during this period. Distinguishing between Copal and Amber is a contentious issue among Amber experts because there is no scaling system for assessing polymerization against age. Even though significant Copal deposits exist in Colombia and South America that are less than 1,000 years old, the process of polymerization may take thousands of years before the resultant material can be called Copal. This is because many external factors affect the rate of molecular linking. The complete transition from resin to Amber needs two additional factors present: heat and pressure. Heat and pressure may support the process of polymerization and turpene evaporation, but their full effect upon the formation of Amber is not completely understood. The length of time needed to reach the point at which the majority of turpenes have escaped varies depending on surrounding conditions and the nature of the resin at the moment of its formation.
The organic inclusions commonly found in Amber include plant debris, small animals and a variety of prehistoric insects. These ancient creatures are predominantly extinct ancestors of today’s cockroaches, ants, termites, caddis flies, centipedes, crickets, scorpions and millipedes. These preserved life forms were trapped by fresh sticky resin that oozed from coniferous trees millions of years ago. Preserved in the Amber, the insects are visible in almost perfect condition, showing the position they were in when they were entombed millions of years ago.
The most valued variety of Amber for manufacturing jewelry and decorative objects is Baltic Amber. Baltic Amber is also known as Succinite after its parent tree Pinus Succinfera that was common in the Tertiary period, some 50 million years ago. The living tree that is thought to be the most visually similar is Agathis Australis. At present, the primary source of Baltic Amber is the various deposits around the Russian port of Kaliningrad, the old German enclave of Koenigsberg. Annexed from the Germans after WW2, it is located on the southern Baltic coast between Poland and Lithuania. It is also called The Western Russian Enclave or Special Economic Zone “Yantar” (the Russian word for Amber). Below 98 feet of sand around Kaliningrad there is a 30-foot alluvial layer of Amber containing clay called “blue earth.” It is mined from the surface in open pits with dredging buckets. The “blue earth” is then washed and the Amber picked out by hand.
Typically yellow, golden or brown, Baltic Amber reportedly comes in 256 documented shades. The color of Amber is influenced by changes in the resin when it is exuded from the tree.
Incredibly light, Amber is occasionally buoyant in salt water and Baltic Amber is sometimes transported long distances by the sea, having been found as far away as the beaches of England and Scotland. It’s from this ability it gains one of its common names, “sea stone.” Important secondary sources include the Dominican Republic and Mexico.
Since the Jurassic Park movies, interest in Amber with insect and animal inclusions has exploded, making it highly collectible. In regard to the film “Jurassic Park,” the alleged source of the dinosaur DNA was Dominican Amber. However, Dominican Amber is thought to be about 25 million years too young to truly contain dinosaur DNA. However, other Amber sources from around the world could potentially contain the genetic material of these avian ancestors.
In 1994 a molecular biologist from California reported that he had extracted DNA from an insect sealed in Amber 120 to 130 million years ago. Dr. Raul Canu claimed the insect was trapped when dinosaurs ruled the earth, leading people to speculate that Michael Crichton’s novel could one day become a scientific reality.
Alexandrite
Jul 20th
ALEXANDRITE
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| ALEXANDRITE | June’s birthstone |
| Origins | India, Madagascar & Tanzania |
| Colors Found | Teal, blue green to forest green changing to violet, crimson red, raspberry, purple & orange |
| Family | Chrysoberyl |
| Hardness | 8.50 |
| Refractive Index | 1.74 – 1.76 |
| Relative Density | 3.70 – 3.78 |
Known in Russia as the “gem of the tsars,” Alexandrite is truly a miraculous gemstone. Often described as “Emerald by day” and “Ruby by night,” when viewed under sunlight Alexandrite appears teal to forest green, but when seen by candlelight, it appears violet, crimson red, raspberry, purple or orange.
Scant availability, remarkable color change, excellent durability and a sparkling “sub-adamantine” or Diamond-like luster, makes Alexandrite a “must have” for any true jewelry connoisseur. A rare variety of Chrysoberyl, Alexandrite ranks alongside Ruby and Sapphire as one of the world’s most coveted gemstones.
Legends and lore
Early one chilly October morning in 1830, a Russian peasant charcoal burner, Maxim Stefanovitch Koshevnikov, was making his way through the silver birch forests along the banks of the Tokovaya River. Tripping on the exposed roots of a large tree felled by a storm, he discovered some green gemstones. Quickly identified as Emeralds, by 1831 this deposit in Russia’s Ural Mountains was being mined.
The Tokovaya Emerald mines also yielded other gemstones, including a new one that had the strange ability to change color. When viewed under sunlight, rich green colors appeared but when seen by candlelight it displayed red hues. The gem was named “Alexandrite” after the young Tsarevitch, who was crowned Tsar Alexander II in 1855. Legend has it that Alexandrite was discovered by Emerald miners on his birthday, April 23, 1830, the year the Russian heir apparent came of age. As the date of the deposit’s discovery and the alleged naming of the gem conflict, Vitaliy Repej, a Ukrainian Alexandrite specialist, instead believes that Alexandrite was actually discovered on April 3, 1834, by the Tsar’s famous Finnish mineralogist Dr. Nils Nordenskjold and wasn’t officially called Alexandrite until 1842.
Its birthday aside, this new gem created a sensation – everyone wanted an Alexandrite! But this was certainly no fun for the miners. Following the sparse Alexandrite veins through pegmatite rock with hand dug trenches, open pits and small tunnels, mining was very primitive to say the least. Imagine working through long winters plagued by biting cold and blinding snowdrifts. Summer brought no respite, just great swarms of gnats, mosquitoes and gadflies.
The discovery of Alexandrite on the future Tsar’s birthday was considered especially fortunate as the colors displayed by this unusual gem can mirror the Imperial Russian military colors of red and green. Possessing nationalistic connotations, Alexandrite quickly gained popularity in Russia, where it was believed to bring good luck.
Because of its two colors, in Russia it is also believed to invite loneliness if you only wear one piece of Alexandrite jewelry.
Alexandrite is believed by crystal healers to strengthen the wearer’s intuition in critical situations. Some also attribute Alexandrite with the ability to aid creativity and inspire imagination.
Just the facts
In gemology, any Chrysoberyl that changes color can be called Alexandrite. The nomenclature is not dependent on the colors of the change. However, Alexandrite’s color change is dependent on pure light sources (pure candescent light to pure incandescent light, for example sunlight to candlelight).
Interestingly, the color change effect is not unique to Alexandrite. Many gem types display color change, such as Sapphire and Garnet. However, the degree of color change exhibited by Alexandrite is among the most extreme encountered in natural gems.
Similar to Emeralds, inclusions are a common feature in Alexandrite. Inclusions record a gem’s natural relationship with the earth. Given the prevalence of synthetic Alexandrite, they are also a fascinating hallmark of authenticity that helps us distinguish real gems from artificial impostors.
Because of this gem’s scarcity, Alexandrite is found in a wide variety of shapes and sizes faceted to maximize the carat weight and beauty of each individual crystal.
Coveted for its beautiful and mysterious optical effects, when you look at a Cat’s Eye Alexandrite you can see a single band of light on its surface. Technically known as “chatoyancy,” this intriguing phenomenon is unique to the world of gemstones. It is caused by minerals reflecting a band of light back to the eye like a mirror.
While beautiful Alexandrite is available from other locales, among Alexandrite connoisseurs, Russian Alexandrite maintains an historical pedigree that is highly coveted. In 1898 Edwin Streeter wrote in “Precious Stones & Gems”: “The wonderful Alexandrite is an Emerald by day and an Amethyst at night. Its market value is extremely variable and sometimes as much as £20 per carat is paid for a fine stone.” Today, the same Russian Alexandrite is worth many thousands of dollars!
Although the Tokovaya deposit closed after only a few decades, limited mining is rumored to have resumed around 1995. To date, very little mining of Russian Alexandrite is taking place. In December 2005, “Colored Stone” reported that “there have been unconfirmed reports of new activity in this area, but no significant amount of material has hit the market yet.” While it is a country rich in gemstones, since the fall of the Soviet Union much of Russia’s gems have not been mined due to both economic conditions and outdated mining practices. Interestingly, both De Beers (a famed Diamond consortium) and Russian geologists are currently surveying Russian Diamond reserves and an offshoot of this exploration may be the discovery of new Alexandrite deposits. Regardless, very little Russian Alexandrite is available and those lucky enough to own one truly are custodians of a gem from a bygone era.
While it wasn’t until 1996 that the tribal peoples of Andhra Pradesh unearthed the first hints of Alexandrite in the Araku Valley, since its discovery Indian Alexandrite has endured a history as turbulent as Imperial Russia. From much needed mining regulation in 1999, to the destruction of coastal mines during the 2004 tsunami, Indian Alexandrite has certainly had its ups and downs. Displaying teal apple greens with changes ranging from orange raspberries to grape, the first Alexandrite ever featured on GemsTV was from Vishnakahaputnam in Andhra Pradesh, India. Always on the hunt for this stunning gem, we recently encountered Indian Alexandrite from a new locale whose rich colors are reminiscent of Alexandrite from the original Russian deposit. Today, Indian Alexandrite primarily hails from Narsipattnanm, 62 miles inland from the first discovery in Vishnakahaputnam. It is characterized by an intense green with an incredible color change that ranges from vibrant Amethyst, to Ruby red and reddish purple. Formed hundreds of millions of years ago during the Paleozoic era, it is believed that the pegmatite rocks found at the location of Alexandrite’s discovery in the Urals in Russia and at Narsipattnanm are the same. Mining Indian Alexandrite is a dangerous business and the tribal miners risk life and limb tunneling muddy soil to a depth of 98 feet to find rocks rich with tiny clusters of Alexandrite.
While gems from the famous Brazilian state of Minas Gerais have enchanted the world for over 100 years, good quality Alexandrite was only discovered in 1987. As with other mines containing pegmatite rocks, Brazilian Alexandrite is found in rugged areas that can be difficult to access. Usually mined using primitive hand tools, one of the most famous exceptions is the Hematitia mine, whose beautiful Alexandrite is now regrettably depleted. Although the majority of Brazilian Alexandrite contains many inclusions or is translucent, a tiny amount of better quality gems has been unearthed. In 2004, a new pocket of Brazilian Alexandrite was discovered, yielding blue green Alexandrite that changed to a delightful raspberry red.
Mines in Madagascar, Tanzania and Mozambique, have been producing good quality Alexandrite for several years. African Alexandrite is typically located in wet regions near rivers and mined by digging through river beds by hand to unearth the Alexandrite-rich pegmatite rock.
For approximately 90 years Russia and Sri Lanka were the only known sources of Alexandrite. Obtained from alluvial gravels (in contrast to most other deposits that are mined from host pegmatite rock), Sri Lankan Alexandrite is characterized by a fine Sapphire green color in daylight with a change to columbine red, similar to purplish red Spinel, in incandescent light.
Agate
Jul 20th
AGATE

| AGATE | Mentioned in the Bible |
| Origins | Brazil, India, Mexico & South Africa |
| Colors Found | Various |
| Family | Chalcedony Quartz |
| Hardness | 6.50 – 7.00 |
| Refractive Index | 1.53 – 1.54 |
| Relative Density | 2.58 – 2.64 |
Agate is the banded form of Chalcedony (also spelled Calcedony and correctly pronounced as “Kal-ced-on-ee,” it is the catchall term for cryptocrystalline Quartz) and its name was derived from the site of its discovery, the river Achates (now Dirillo) in southwest Sicily. You will often find beautifully flowing patterns within Agate, which are caused by the presence of iron and manganese.
Legends and lore
Said by the ancients to render the wearer invisible, Agate has been admired by humanity for thousands of years. Its beauty and durability have prompted humankind to use it for both practical and ornamental purposes. Valued by the ancient Sumerians and Egyptians who used it for amulets and ornamental pieces, Agate is one of the oldest known gems. In Roman times, Agate intaglio (a gem carved in negative relief) signet rings were particularly popular.
Agate is mentioned in the Bible as being one of the “stones of fire” (Ezekiel 28:13-16) that were given to Moses and set in the breastplate of Aaron (Exodus 28:15-30). A variety of Agate, Sardonyx is one of the twelve gemstones set in the foundations of the city walls of Jerusalem (Revelations 21:19). As compiled by Andreas, Bishop of Caesurae, one of the earliest writers to tie the Apostles with the symbolism of the twelve gems of Jerusalem, Sardonyx represents the Apostle James. Agate was especially valued during medieval times when one of the more outlandish uses was to bind an Agate to each horn of an ox to ensure a good harvest. The danger here is that your Agated beasts of burden may then become invisible and a little hard to find! Agate is believed to cure insomnia, ensure pleasant dreams, protect against danger and promote strength and healing.
Just the facts
The main conditions necessary for Agate formation are the presence of silica from devitrified volcanic ash, water from rainfall or ground sources, manganese, iron and other mineral oxides that form the white, red, blue, gray, brown or black bands. Agate comes in many different forms ranging from transparent to opaque. Varieties include Blue Agate, Blue Lace Agate, Crazy Lace Agate, Green Agate, Indian Agate, Moss Agate, Fire Agate, Tree Agate, Onyx, Sardonyx and Wood Agate.