Picking the Perfect Gemstone: Gemstone Meanings & Names
Gemstones
The Beauty Of Emerald Rings
Nov 17th
You can find a grand selection of brand name emerald rings at low merchandise pricing online or at sales at jewelry shops. Emerald has been a popular gemstone for many years due to its deep color and it is also the birthstone for May. There are many styles for this ring and would make a great gift for birthdays, anniversaries or Christmas. You can find 18 karat or 14 karat gold emerald rings for a beautiful price by shopping online and in store. If you plan on shopping online you will want to check with the company to see if it has a return policy and assure the quality worth of the ring.
Emerald engagement rings are also becoming very popular. You can have a custom ring intertwined with diamonds to make an elegant ring piece. You may also get different cuts of the emerald rings for different styles. There are thousands of contemporary and classic styles to choose from and you can customize your own ring at any jeweler. Some people may prefer an antique emerald ring with a vintage style or renovate a ring that has been handed down from generations. Emerald rings also make great Mother’s Day gifts. You may even have the ring engraved for a more personalized gift whether it can be the recipent’s name or a special date. Extra charges may apply and the engraving may be done at the jeweler or a special engraving shop. Any woman would love to receive this as a gift that will create memories for a long time to come.
Versatile Stackable Rings
Jul 19th
Bubble Stacking Rings, Set of Three
Stackable Rings have been a favorite since they can be worn together or separately. These rings comes in a varity of colors and can be designed with stones or a jewel of your choice. Some people even keep part of a set and give the remainder to a friend or family member. Stackable rings are comfortable to wear and go with any other piece of jewelry–rings, bracelets–that you wear everyday. Stackable rings can be worn on any finger and some even choose to wear them on their toes! These pieces will become a favorite part of your jewelry collection.
Stackable rings are made from silver and gold so they will shine for many years to come; just clean with a soft cloth and jewelry cleaner to bring back the sparkle and shine. Give these as a gift to a graduate or for a birthday. The recipient will be surprised and pleased to have such a versatile piece of jewelry. If you have ever owned stackable rings, you have no doubt received many compliments on this jewelry. If you are shopping for stackable rings, check out a local jeweler for the many different looks that you can achieve wearing these rings. Any jewelry lover will tell you that this pieces are a great addition to any womans fashion wardrobe!
For a wide selection of Stackable Rings, check out www.gemvara.com!
Zultanite
Jul 20th
ZULTANITE
| ZULTANITE | Color change |
| Origins | Turkey |
| Colors Found | Various (see opposite) |
| Family | Diaspore |
| Hardness | 6.50 – 7.00 |
| Refractive Index | 1.70 – 1.75 |
| Relative Density | 3.30 – 3.39 |
Astonishingly beautiful, durable, exotic and rare, Zultanite is an extraordinary color change gemstone. Like Tanzanite, Zultanite is so rare that it is only found in one location worldwide, high in Turkey’s Anatolian Mountains. A rising star in fine jewelry, it’s easy to fall in love with Zultanite’s sparklingly brilliant, tranquil earthy colors. GemsTV is delighted to extend the privilege of owning this phenomenal gemstone to our valued customers.
First faceted in the late seventies (1977), Zultanite is an extremely rare gemstone that despite its beauty and suitability for jewelry was previously plagued by scant availability. While an article in “Gems & Gemology” magazine (Winter 1994) indicated that supplies were promising, this hasn’t translated into the availability of good quality gems until recently. While some jewelers previously sourced limited quantities of this gem marketed under their mineral name Diaspore, please don’t confuse the two. Zultanite is your guarantee that each gem has been optimally cut by some of the world’s most experienced lapidaries.
Zultanite’s mineral name “Diaspore,” comes from the Greek word “diaspora,” meaning “to scatter”. While Diaspore was discovered in Mramorskoi, Kossoibrod, Ural Mountains, Russia in 1801, the Turkish deposit remains the world’s only source of Zultanite. Zultanite was named by Murat Akgun in honor of the 36 sultans who founded the Ottoman Empire in Anatolia in the late 13th century.
Legends and lore
Some people believe Zultanite can assist in the development of psychic power, astral force, ambition, intellect, desire and emotions based on intellect and touch.
Just the facts
The beauty and intrigue of this regal transparent gemstone lies in its different colors. Similar to the famous color change gem Alexandrite, Zultanite can change from a kiwi green to a raspberry purplish-pink, depending on the light source. Incredibly, Zultanite can also exhibit khaki greens, sage greens, cognac pinks, pinkish champagnes and gingers. Zultanite’s kiwi greens with canary flashes are noticeable under sunny skies (candescent light), while traditional indoor lighting will elicit rich champagne colors. During a candle lit dinner (incandescent light), the same gem reveals pink to raspberry hues. Zultanite’s darker raspberries are caused by higher manganese content. While just wearing Zultanite unveils its breathtakingly diverse colors, one of its most unique characteristics is that unlike other color change gems, Zultanite’s best color change is not dependant on dark tones. According to the leading gemstone author Antoinette Matlins, some women prefer the colors of Zultanite because they like the more subtle pastel contrast and find they complement earth tones (green, brown and gold), making the gem more wearable.
As if one phenomena wasn’t enough, some Zultanite also possess the coveted cat’s eye effect. Chatoyancy or the cat’s eye effect is a reflection effect that appears as a single bright band of light across the surface of a gemstone.
Although it was initially collected by mineral enthusiasts and independent miners in the mid eighties, Zultanite is now mined commercially. Mined by hand with chisels and pick-axes in Turkey’s Anatolian Mountains (Milas county of Mugla) at a height of over 4,000 feet, the world’s only Zultanite deposit is 7 miles away from the nearest village of Selimiye. But its rarity isn’t just dictated by its natural scarcity and remoteness, Zultanite tests the skills of even experienced cutters due to the difficultly in correctly orientating each crystal to accentuate its inherent color change. With up to 98% of the crystal lost during cutting, its unbelievably low yield (2%) really reinforces the exclusivity of this truly beautiful gemstone and is one of the reasons Zultanite is so rare, especially in larger sizes (over 5 carats).
Zircon
Jul 20th
ZIRCON
| ZIRCON | December’s birthstone |
| Origins | Cambodia, Nigeria, Sri Lanka & Tanzania |
| Colors Found | Blue, green, honey, red, white & yellow |
| Family | Zircon |
| Hardness | 6.50 – 7.50 |
| Refractive Index | 1.81 – 2.02 |
| Relative Density | 3.93 – 4.73 |
Zircon’s name is either derived from the Arabic word “zarkun,” meaning red, or a combination of the ancient Persian words “zar,” meaning gold and “gun,” meaning color. Despite this name, Zircon actually occurs in a myriad of colors.
Zircon’s brilliant luster, fire and bright hues makes it an enjoyable addition to any jewelry collection.
Legends and lore
Zircon has been found in some of the most ancient archaeological sites.
Zircon has appeared in literature and the gem trade under a variety of names including Jargon (Yellow Zircon), Jacinth (Red Zircon), Matara Diamond (White Zircon), Starlite (Blue Zircon), Hyacinth (Blue, Yellow and Red Zircon) and Ligure.
Zircon is first mentioned in the ancient Indian tale of the Kalpa Tree. Described by Hindu poets as the ultimate gift to the gods, it was a bright glowing tree with bejeweled leaves of Zircon.
The gemstone of fiery starlight, Jewish legends say that Zircon was the name of the guardian angel sent to watch over Adam and Eve in the Garden of Eden.
Zircon is mentioned in the Bible (using the name Jacinth for its red variety) as being one of the “stones of fire” (Ezekiel 28:13-16) that were given to Moses and set in the breastplate of Aaron (Exodus 28:15-30). Zircon is also one of the twelve gemstones set in the foundations of the city walls of Jerusalem (Revelations 21:19) and associated with the Apostle Simon.
The Roman historian, Pliny the Elder, compared Blue Zircon’s color to hyacinth flowers.
Traditionally, Zircon is a gem of purity and innocence. Zircon is believed to promote inner peace while providing the wearer with wisdom, honor and riches. Legend also has it that a Zircon’s loss of luster is a warning of imminent danger.
Zircon’s popularity grew dramatically in the 16th century when Italian artisans featured the gem in jewelry designs. In the 1880′s Blue Zircon was widely used in Victorian jewelry.
Just the facts
Although Zircon’s existence predates Cubic Zirconia by centuries, Zircon is often unfairly confused with Cubic Zirconia. Cubic Zirconia is a cheap, synthetic Diamond substitute that resembles colorless Zircon and has a similar sounding name. While Zircon may also be used as an excellent Diamond substitute, it is valuable in its own right.
The fire in Zircon, called dispersion, is caused by light entering the gemstone and separating into a prism of rainbow colors. Possessing dispersion approaching that of Diamond, the brilliance of Zircon is second to none. The Zircon cut, a variation of the Round Brilliant cut that adds eight extra facets to the pavilion, was designed to take advantage of these properties.
A very unique characteristic of Zircon is birefringence (doubly refractive), meaning that light splits into two rays as it passes through the gem. As a result, the back facets appear as double images, lending optical depth to the gem. Zircon also has an adamantine (Diamond-like) luster, lending further credence to its suitability as a Diamond substitute.
Zircon remains unscathed while other rocks and minerals melt and reform under the tremendous heat and pressure of continental shifts, mountain-building and violent asteroid impacts. Once only considered a Diamond alternative, Zircon is in fact incredibly ancient. A tiny fragment of Zircon discovered in Western Australia is the oldest known object on earth at 4.404 billion years old (the Earth formed less than 150 million years earlier). Diamonds in comparison are quite young, a mere 1 billion to 3.3 billion years old.
Cambodia is arguably the world’s premiere source for gorgeous Blue Zircon. Sixty two miles north of Angkor Wat, close to the Cambodian Thai border, are the mines of Preah Vihear. Remote, pristine and stunningly beautiful, Ratanakiri is another major center for Cambodian Zircon, yielding some of the world’s finest Blue Zircon. Ratanakiri literally means “gemstone mountain.” South of the city, a mining camp has been carved from the forest, where workers toil to extract Ratanakiri Zircon from narrow mine shafts that tap into an alluvial layer about 15 feet below the surface. Matt MacNamara, one of GemsTV’s presenters, visited several Ratanakiri Zircon mines in 2004 and 2007: “I was amazed to see the miners still using traditional mining techniques, which remain effective to this day. It’s easy to forget how much work goes into unearthing these wonderful gems.”
A unification of fire and ice, Ice Zircon? mixes the pure clear whites of ice with a fiery brilliance and luster reminiscent of Diamonds. Proprietary to GemsTV, our Ice Zircon? hails from Mahenge, Tanzania in East Africa.
Turquoise
Jul 20th
TURQUOISE
| TURQUOISE | December’s birthstone |
| Origins | Afghanistan, China, India, Iran & US |
| Colors Found | Bluish green & sky blue |
| Family | Turquoise |
| Hardness | 5.00 – 6.00 |
| Refractive Index | 1.61 – 1.65 |
| Relative Density | 2.31 – 2.84 |
The name Turquoise is derived from the French “pierre turquois” meaning “Turkish Stone.” This is because western Europeans mistakenly thought the gem came from Turkey.
In fact it came from the Sinai Peninsula or the Alimersai Mountain in Persia (now Iran), which has been mining Turquoise since 5000 BC. In Persian, Turquoise is known as “ferozah,” meaning victorious and it is the national gemstone of Iran to this day.
Legends and lore
Turquoise was one of the first gemstones ever mined, dating back to 6000 BC in Egypt’s Sinai Peninsula.
In ancient times the Egyptians, Persians, Mongols and Tibetans all valued Turquoise highly. The first millennium AD saw a big increase in the popularity of Turquoise with both the Chinese and Native Americans becoming captivated by this blue gem.
Turquoise has been used for thousands of years as jewelry by the ancient Egyptians, who buried fine pieces with mummies. When the tomb of Queen Zer was unearthed in 1900, a Turquoise and Gold bracelet was found on her wrist, making this one of the oldest pieces of jewelry on earth!
The Persians preferred sky blue Turquoise and as a result, the term “Persian Turquoise” is sometimes incorrectly used as a color grade, not as a geographical indicator.
In Mexico, the Aztecs began mining Turquoise between 900-1000 AD, often fashioning it into elaborate masks.
The Anasazi people of America mined Turquoise in what are now Arizona, New Mexico and Colorado. The city of Chaco Canyon became very wealthy based on the Turquoise trade, which was often exchanged for the feathers of tropical birds. Turquoise from this area found its way around the trade routes of the American continent and has been unearthed as far away as the great Mayan city of Chichén Itzá in the Yucatán. By the 16th century, the cultures of the American southwest were using Turquoise as currency.
In North America, the Zuni people of New Mexico have created striking Turquoise jewelry set in silver, once believing these protected them from demons. The Navajo believed that Turquoise had fallen from the sky and thus also protected them from demons, while Apache warriors believed that wearing Turquoise improved their hunting prowess. Apache legend has it that if Turquoise was affixed to a bow, the arrows shot from it would always hit their mark. All these tribes believed that Turquoise brought good fortune and happiness.
European interest in Turquoise can be dated to around 500 BC when the people of Siberia began using the gem, but it did not make an impact on western European fashion until the late middle ages when trading with the Near and Middle East increased.
While the Chinese had some mines in their empire, they imported most of their Turquoise from Persians, Turks, Tibetans and Mongols. In Asia it was considered protection against the evil eye. Tibetans carved Turquoise into ritual objects as well as wearing it in traditional jewelry. Ancient manuscripts from Persia, India, Afghanistan, and Arabia report that the health of a person wearing Turquoise can be assessed by variations in the color of the gem. Turquoise was also thought to promote prosperity.
It is also believed that Turquoise helps one to start new projects and protects the wearer from falling, especially from horses! In Europe even today, Turquoise rings are still given as forget-me-not gifts.
Montezuma’s treasure, now displayed in the British Museum, includes a fantastic carved serpent covered by a mosaic of Turquoise. In ancient Mexico, Turquoise was reserved for the gods; it could not be worn by mere mortals.
Just the facts
Turquoise, a hydrated phosphate of copper and aluminum, is prized as a gemstone whose intense blue color is often mottled with veins of brown limonite or black manganese oxide (commonly known as Spider Web Turquoise). Turquoise is almost always opaque and polished as cabochons but rare, translucent gems also exist.
Turquoise jewelry in the US has long been produced by Native Americans (Zuni and Navajo peoples). Today, Turquoise is prominently associated with Native American culture particularly Zuni bracelets, Navajo concha belts, squash blossom necklaces and thunderbird motifs. Native American jewelry with Turquoise mounted in or with silver is actually relatively new. Some believe this style of jewelry was unknown prior to about 1880, when a white trader persuaded a Navajo craftsman to make Turquoise and silver jewelry using coin silver.
Tourmaline
Jul 20th
TORMALINE
| TOURMALINE | October’s birthstone |
| Origins | Brazil, Kenya, Madagascar, Malawi, Mozambique, Nigeria, Sri Lanka & Tanzania |
| Colors Found | Various |
| Family | Tourmaline |
| Hardness | 7.00 – 7.50 |
| Refractive Index | 1.61 – 1.66 |
| Relative Density | 2.82 – 3.32 |
Boasting a colorful and romantic history, Tourmaline rivals all but the most unique gems as it is found in an incredible array of gorgeous colors. Coming in a palette of over 100 different hues, Tourmaline is one of the world’s most diverse gemstones. This has resulted in the nickname “the chameleon gem,” which is doubly appropriate when you consider that one major source of Tourmaline is Madagascar, home to more than half of the world’s chameleon species!
The name Tourmaline comes from the Sinhalese word “turmali,” meaning mixed, due to a historical tendency for it to be confused and then mixed with other gem varieties.
Legends and lore
Sri Lanka (formerly Ceylon) was also partly responsible for Tourmaline’s reappearance in Europe when Tourmaline gems were sold to Dutch traders who imported them to the west in the 15th century.
The Dutch, aside from admiring Tourmaline for its beauty, first discovered that this gem, like Quartz, possessed a unique property, piezoelectricity. Tourmaline when heated or rubbed creates an electrical charge, becoming a magnet that attracts lightweight materials.
A monarch particularly enchanted by Tourmaline was the Empress Dowager Tz’u Hsi, the last Empress of China. She loved Tourmaline so much, and was so wealthy, that she bought almost a ton of it!
Just the facts
While Tourmalines occur in large crystal sizes, Tourmaline of sufficient beauty to be set into jewelry is not available in great abundance. Because of their size, crystals are sometimes cut into long rectangular shapes following the axis of the crystal.
Tourmaline crystals occur in granitic pegmatite veins occurring in the great gem mining districts of Minas Gerais in Brazil, and the East African countries of Kenya, Tanzania, Mozambique, Malawi and Madagascar.
In the summer of 1998 a new Tourmaline deposit was unearthed near the city of Ibadan in Nigeria, West Africa, proving to be one of the most significant Tourmaline discoveries in modern times.
Tourmaline is a group of mineral species. However, it’s the mineral Elbaite (named after the island of Elba near Italy’s west coast where it was discovered) that is responsible for almost all of Tourmaline’s most famous gem varieties. When used, the name “Elbaite” typically references Green Tourmaline, while the other colors of Elbaite have their own specific color-related names.
Tourmaline very occasionally displays the cat’s eye effect. Chatoyancy or the cat’s eye effect is a reflection effect that appears as a single bright band of light across the surface of a gemstone.
All Tourmalines can display pleochroism, meaning that its color changes when viewed at different angles. However, this can vary from specimen to specimen. In some, this effect is hardly noticeable, while in others it is strongly apparent. To bring out the best color, gemstone cutters must take this into account when faceting Tourmaline.
Green Tourmaline
Typically free from inclusions, Green Tourmaline offers gem consumers everything they want in an Emerald, but with more clarity.
Green Tourmaline has become very popular with collectors over recent years as they realize the true potential of this beautiful gem. Chrome Tourmaline is a scarcer variety of Green Tourmaline that bears chromium, the midas element responsible for producing particularly striking colors in a variety of gemstones.
Indicolite Tourmaline
Ranging in color from bright to deep blue, Indicolite Tourmaline is very rare and high quality specimens are highly collectible. Indicolite is strongly pleochroic (showing different hues when viewed from different directions). As Indicolite appears darker when viewed down the crystal, this must be taken into consideration when cutting, as a loss of transparency and brilliance can occur in darker specimens. The Romans reportedly used Indicolite, particularly in carved brooches that often bore the images of animals, as they believed it possessed strange occult powers. It was rediscovered in Europe in 1703 when the Dutch imported Indicolite they had obtained in Sri Lanka. Generally, only Indicolite less than 1 carat is available and as a result, bigger sizes are very rare and prized as special members of the Tourmaline family.
Multi Color Tourmaline
Mentioned in early 20th century gemological texts, it was not until the 1970′s that Multi Color Tourmaline lent its charm to jewelry. Treasured for the magnificent harmony of its two colors, Multi Color Tourmaline possesses a distinctive beauty created by chance.
Due to its complex chemical composition, Tourmaline comes in many colors. Multi Colored Tourmaline occurs because of differences caused by environmental changes. At different times, various color-causing elements (iron, manganese, titanium, chromium and vanadium) were incorporated into the crystal, causing different color layers. Purposefully cut to showcase this feature, Multi Colored Tourmaline displays a gorgeous contrast between its colors, typically pink and green, in one gem.
Given the environmental changes endured by Multi Color Tourmaline, like many Tourmalines (Paraiba or Rubellite), inclusions are common. Far from being flaws, inclusions are a hallmark of authenticity that record a gem’s natural relationship with the earth.
Multi Color Tourmaline should not be confused with Watermelon Tourmaline. Watermelon Tourmaline is a crystal with the inner part showing pink surrounded by green. They are typically thinly sliced in sections, like a loaf of bread and polished to show the “watermelon” effect.
Paraiba Tourmaline
Paraiba Tourmaline is typically a small gem that displays electric swimming pool blues, neon peacocks and sizzling turquoises. Initially discovered at Mina da Bathalha, Paraiba, Brazil, it possesses a unique brilliance that allows the gem to glow and shine even when there is little light.
Named after the location of its first discovery, Paraiba, Brazil, the most interesting thing about this gem is that its name is more than just a location. Most Tourmalines get their gorgeous colors from traces of iron, manganese, chromium and vanadium, but Paraiba Tourmaline owes its spectacular colors to small amounts of copper, an element not typically found in Tourmaline. Paraiba Tourmaline also often contains manganese. When combined, the interaction between copper and manganese adds to the beautiful and fascinating colors displayed.
Prior to 1989, Mina da Batalha produced Tourmaline for almost 10 years but the crystals were too fractured or broken to be faceted. Heitor Dimas Barbos, the father of Paraiba Tourmaline, was convinced that better quality Tourmaline could be found. He started digging in abandoned mines near the village of Sao Jose da Batalha in early 1981. In autumn 1989 his persistence finally paid off when he discovered a tiny new vein of gem-quality crystals. By 1994 the relatively small mountain range had almost been leveled and exhausted in the hunt for Paraiba Tourmaline. Mining Brazilian Paraiba Tourmaline is laborious, unpredictable and erratic. Chipped by hand directly from host metamorphic rock (granitic pegmatite), the elusive narrow veins appear and disappear haphazardly, resulting in mines that resemble Swiss cheese, with a multitude of narrow shafts and interconnected tunnels up to 197 feet deep.
While other Brazilian deposits have since been discovered, the race has been on to find these geological rarities elsewhere. Thankfully, Africa came to the rescue. The first new find was discovered in 2001 at the Edoukou Mine in Oyo, Nigeria, close to the border of Benin and in 2003 in Mozambique’s Nampula (Mafucu Mine or Shalawa Mine) and Zambezia provinces. African Paraiba is believed to exist due to the theory of continental drift. Roughly 200 million years ago the earth’s continents were joined together to form one gigantic super-continent called Pangaea. Comparing the silhouettes of Africa and South America, both fit like pieces in a jigsaw puzzle. This suggests they once belonged to a single landmass where similar geological conditions resulted in their formation. In contrast to the Brazilian deposit, African Paraiba Tourmaline is mined from alluvial deposits. Interestingly, the LMHC (Laboratory Manual Harmonization Committee) recently determined that as African Paraiba cannot be distinguished from their Brazilian counterpart by standard gemological tests, the “Paraiba” name is no longer origin specific, it is now only dependent on color, copper and manganese.
While mostly small sizes are extracted (less than 10 points) Paraiba Tourmaline from Mozambique has an average size of 2 carats, which is absolutely amazing considering the norm. Like Emeralds, inclusions are common in Paraiba Tourmaline, making its color the main beauty determinant. However, when Paraiba Tourmaline displays clean clarities, its rarity and value increase exceptionally. Its beautiful vivid colors have made Paraiba Tourmaline hugely popular within a short time. An uncommon color for the gem kingdom, Paraiba Tourmaline even enchants those accustomed to seeing a wide variety of gems. One of the world’s most desired gemstones, gem collectors the world over compete for new Paraiba Tourmaline. Paraiba Tourmaline is a gem whose impossible rarity is only surpassed by its unrivaled beauty.
Rubellite Tourmaline
Rubellite’s sensuous mélange is the personification of seduction; no other colors display its comparable flair. Whispering in passionate pinks and suggestive purples, Rubellite affords the perfect romance in an opulence of red. Rubellite, deriving its name from the Latin word “rubellus,” meaning “coming from red” is a lustrous, reddish pink and purple-toned variety of Tourmaline. In the 17th century, the Tsar of Russia commissioned many items of gemstone jewelry to be made for the Imperial Crown Court. However, gems that were originally thought to be Rubies, have later been discovered to be Rubellite.
Extremely rare, Rubellite has taken the jewelry world by storm in recent years following the discovery of deposits in Madagascar and Nigeria. Madagascan Rubellite heralds from mines located 26 miles from the town of Betafo, in the Antananarivo province in Madagascar’s central highlands. Interestingly, this deposit produces some truly unique Rubellites whose color is close to that of famous Rubies.
With the exception of Ruby and Noble Red Spinel, Rubellite is the only other gemstone that occurs in such a rich, dark red color. Similar to Emeralds, inclusions in Rubellite are common. The chemical element that colors Rubellite (manganese) actually cause a growing crystal to become internally flawed (i.e., the more manganese present, the darker the red color, and the more imperfect the final crystal). It is therefore extremely rare to find a richly colored Rubellite that is internally clean. Rubellites also tend to have more natural inclusions because they are formed near the center of the crystal pocket, and thus receive more stress and pressure during their formation. Regardless, Rubellite is a durable gemstone, well-suited to everyday jewelry.
Topaz
Jul 20th
TOPAZ
| TOPAZ | November’s birthstone |
| Origins | Brazil, Mozambique, Nigeria & Russia |
| Colors Found | Various |
| Family | Topaz |
| Hardness | 8.00 |
| Refractive Index | 1.60 – 1.64 |
| Relative Density | 3.49 – 3.57 |
The origin of the name Topaz generates confusion, as some references point to the Sanskrit word “tapaz,” meaning fire, while others believe it is named after Zeberget, an island in the Red Sea that the Greeks called Topazius, the ancient source of Peridot.
While some sources think this was due to ancient confusion between Topaz and Peridot, it now appears more likely that this name might have come from confusion with the Greek word “topasin,” which means to guess or conjecture, possibly in reference to the way fisherman sometimes lost the island in fog. Regardless, in history the name was not consistently or specifically applied (it was once used to describe most yellow gems) and sometimes Topaz and Peridot are mentioned as being the same and sometimes different. Interestingly, in the famous book “The Curious Lore of Precious Stones,” the esteemed gemologist George Frederick Kunz (1856-1932) states that these two gems are the same species.
Topaz is an inherently romantic gem and features regularly in the titles of romance novels and honeymoon destinations. Its name indicates beauty, rarity and wealth, and imparts a sense of timelessness.
While the golden yellow and blues of Topaz are the most widely known, Topaz actually comes in a diverse array of striking colors. This combined with its beauty and durability, makes Topaz jewelry ideal for all occasions.
Legends and lore
Many ancient traditions and beliefs have created a brilliant history for Topaz. Like Peridot, the Egyptians called Topaz the “gem of the sun,” believing it was colored by the golden glow of their sun god Ra and thus a powerful protector from harm.
Greeks and Romans also associated the golden crystals with their sun god, Jupiter. They believed the gem increased their strength and could neutralize enchantments.
Topaz is mentioned in the Bible as being one of the “stones of fire” (Ezekiel 28:13-16) that were given to Moses and set in the breastplate of Aaron (Exodus 28:15-30). Topaz is also one of the twelve gemstones set in the foundations of the city walls of Jerusalem (Revelations 21:19) and associated with the Apostle Matthew.
Bushmen in Africa used Topaz in healing ceremonies and rituals to connect with ancestral spirits.
In medieval courts, kings, judges and other noble persons were often presented with an engraved Topaz to win favor and cultivate positive relationships.
If you are on a journey of spiritual change, Topaz is believed by crystal healers to make an excellent companion. It apparently teaches you to trust in the universe, aiding you to fully recognize the magical laws of attraction, increasing your ability to manipulate them.
Once believed to make you invincible during danger, Topaz is also believed by some crystal healers to strengthen confidence and to help you make correct decisions by giving you the courage to follow through on choices, thereby changing dreams into reality.
Meditations with Topaz are believed by some to help awaken sleeping talents and illuminate co-creative energies.
Just the facts
Mined from both host rock and alluvial deposits, its unique crystal structure makes Topaz a hard and dense gemstone. Because of this, pure colorless Topaz has often been mistaken for Diamond. Weighing 1,680 carats, the huge Braganza gemstone mounted into the Portuguese crown jewels was originally thought to be a Diamond – in fact it is a beautiful clear Topaz.
A hydrous aluminum fluorosilicate, Topaz is usually formed in granitic pegmatites and in Quartz veins.
Blue Topaz
As well as the renowned Sky Blue Topaz, the more intense coloring of Swiss Blue and London Blue Topaz are also becoming increasingly popular.
Glacier Topaz?
A unification of fire and ice, Glacier Topaz? mixes the pure clear whites of glacier ice with a fiery brilliance and luster reminiscent of Diamonds. Sourced from Russia’s frozen wildness, Glacier Topaz? is a stunning new gemstone exclusive to GemsTV.
Mined from the same region as Russian Alexandrite and Siberian Emerald, Glacier Topaz? is yet another testament to the quality of Russian gemstones. Glacier Topaz?, arguably Topaz at its most pure, requires only cutting and faceting to reveal its hidden beauty.
Glacier Topaz? is mined at one location on the planet, the famous Murzinka mines (named after the Ostyak’s Prince Murzin) in the Ural Mountains, Russia. Active for well over a century, the Murzinka mines produce some of the world’s finest Topaz, a gemstone for which Russia was once famous.
While Brazil is today the recognized powerhouse for Topaz, Russian Topaz is relatively difficult to source, particularly with respect to the pure natural perfection embodied by Glacier Topaz?.
The miners work the deposits of the Murzinka granite pegmatite fields by tunneling up to 98 feet below the earth’s surface in an effort to carefully extract Topaz crystals directly from the host rocks of the lucrative Mokrusha vein. Painstaking work, only a very small percentage of all the Murzinka Topaz mined has the necessary purity to warrant the distinction of being called Glacier Topaz?.
Imperial Topaz
At the height of Imperial Russia’s power, orange pink Topaz was brought from Brazil to decorate the jewelry of the Tzarina. Since then, these colors have been known as Imperial Topaz and remain one of the most coveted varieties. Interestingly, some sources dispute this legend and state that Imperial Topaz was named in honor of Emperor Don Pedro of Brazil.
Mystic Topaz
Displaying a flaming kaleidoscope of colors, Mystic Topaz (also known as Mystic Fire Topaz, Rainbow Topaz, Titanium Topaz, Alaskan Topaz and Caribbean Topaz) is one of the 20th century’s most beautiful new gemstones. First appearing in September 1998 at the Hong Kong Jewelry Fair, the popularity of Mystic Topaz increased dramatically when it was exhibited at the Tucson Gem Show in 2003.
Mystic Topaz is produced using the physical vapor deposition (PVD) coating process. Applied to top quality natural White Topaz, the treatment is permanent with normal wear (please click here for more information on the PVD process). This process can induce an iridescent appearance, whose colors range depending on the light source and the viewing angle relative to both the gem’s surfaces and the light source.
While Mystic Topaz displays a wide variety of scintillating celestial, earthly and oceanic hues all in one gemstone, the PVD process also produces a range of popular new Topaz colors including Flamingo Topaz, Twilight Topaz, Moonlight Topaz, Canary Topaz, Kiwi Topaz and Neptune Topaz.
Tektite
Jul 20th
TEKTITE
| TEKTITE | Extraterrestrial gem |
| Origins | Australia, Austria, China, Czech Republic, Germany, Laos, Malaysia, Philippines, Thailand & Vietnam |
| Colors Found | Black & green |
| Family | Tektite |
| Hardness | 5.50 |
| Refractive Index | 1.48 – 1.54 |
| Relative Density | 2.32 – 2.38 |
We are not alone! Since the beginning of time the curiosity of humankind has been aroused by the descent of “shooting stars” or meteorites into our world. So catch a falling star as we discover the mystery behind this extraterrestrial gemstone?
Tektite comes from the Greek word “tektos,” meaning molten and was the name given by Edward Suess, a highly regarded professor at the University of Vienna.
A meteor is a small particle from space that appears as a bright light that completely burns up before it hits the ground. However, a meteorite is a meteor that is large enough to reach the ground without burning up completely. Frequently exploding on impact, throwing pieces of rare and highly sought after meteorite debris over a large area, these incredibly scarce and collectible gems are perfect for anyone fascinated by outer space.
Just the facts
Collectively known as Tektites, they are assigned specific names based on their location. For example, Moldavites, named after the river Moldu in the Czech Republic are found in this country as well as Austria and Germany, Australites are from Australia, Philippinites are from the Philippines and southern China, Malaysianites are from Malaysia, and Indochinites are from Thailand, Burma, China, Laos and Vietnam.
Considered to be gemstones from space, Tektites are fragments of natural glass that are formed from meteorite impacts with our planet. Tektites come in two forms. The more typical “splash form” Tektites have rounded aerodynamic shapes such as spheres, teardrops, dumbbells and disks, while “layered” Tektites are usually only found in southeast Asia and have blocky, fragmental shapes and often display compositional layering.
Some Tektites are smooth, but others have rough, strongly eroded surfaces. Most Tektites are jet black, but Moldavites are dark to bottle green and are usually the most suitable for faceting. Tektites look similar to Obsidian, which is a result of volcanic lava coming into contact with water, but they are differentiated by their color and chemical composition.
Tektites are only found in a few regions on earth (called Tektite strewn fields) and are, in most cases, associated with young impact craters on or near land.
Tanzanite
Jul 20th
TANZANITE
| TANZANITE | December’s birthstone |
| Origins | Tanzania |
| Colors Found | Shades of lilac, blue & purple as well as fancy colors |
| Family | Zoisite |
| Hardness | 6.50 – 7.00 |
| Refractive Index | 1.69 – 1.70 |
| Relative Density | 3.35 |
Displaying an aurora of stunning blues and violets, Tanzanite’s popularity is well deserved. Demand for Tanzanite has rocketed in recent years, outstripping sales of all other colored gemstones, with the exception of Sapphire. A thousand times rarer than Diamonds and with a little over a decade of mine life remaining, Tanzanite is the fashion gem of the millennium.
Legends and lore
While Tanzanite might not yet be the stuff of legends, being discovered a mere 40 years ago, this gorgeous gem has already attracted more attention and gossip than any modern-day celebrity.
Named for Czechoslovakian Baron Zois von Edelstein, before Tanzanite, Zoisite (Tanzanite’s gemological name) never really amounted to much. Sure, opaque pink and apple-green varieties were used in jewelry, but these were never going to make Zoisite hugely popular. All this changed in 1967 at the arid foothills of Mount Kilimanjaro in Merelani, Tanzania. Legend has it that a short lived grass fire caused by a lightening strike was the catalyst that turned burgundy violet surface pebbles of Zoisite into the vibrant blues spotted by Tanzania’s nomadic Masai herdsmen. While wonderfully romantic, it is unlikely a grass fire could affect such a dramatic transformation.
In reality, the story of Tanzanite’s discovery is as fascinating as the gem. While it is not known exactly who first found Tanzanite, the most popular story is that a local tribesman, Ali Juuyawatu discovered a translucent Tanzanite crystal at the base of Mount Kilimanjaro, sharing his find with a local prospector named Manuel D’Souza. D’Souza was actually searching for Rubies in the region and initially thought he’d discovered a new source of Sapphires. However, their multitude of blues and complex composition soon revealed Tanzanite’s true identity to gemologists. Interestingly, the legendary Scottish geologist, Campbell R. Bridges, first discovered Tsavorite in Tanzania in 1967 during some Tanzanite consulting work for Tiffany & Co. and was the first person to bring Tanzanite to the US for identification by the GIA (Gemological Institute of America) Gem Trade Laboratory. Tanzanite quickly found its way to American jewelers, arriving at the New York-based jewelers Tiffany & Co.
Henry B. Platt, great grandson of Louis Comfort Tiffany and later President and Chairman of Tiffany & Co., was immediately enraptured by its beauty, but disturbed by its gemological name “Blue Zoisite.” To him the name echoed “blue suicide.” As with everything, it’s all in the name, so this rare and exotic African gemstone was christened Tanzanite. At Tanzanite’s official launch in October 1968, Platt remarked that it “was the most beautiful blue gemstone discovered in over 2,000 years.” Heralded as “the gemstone of the 20th century,” Tanzanite’s blue-purple fire soon took the world by storm and demand for Tanzanite jewelry grew dramatically, until in 1998 and 1999 Tanzanite was proclaimed the world’s best selling colored gemstone. Today, the demand for Tanzanite continues, outstripping sales of all other colored gemstones, with the exception of Sapphire.
In recognition of its popularity, in 2002 Tanzanite was added to the jewelry industry’s official birthstone list. This saw Tanzanite join Turquoise and Zircon as accepted birthstones for December. Not a small thing, especially when you consider this was the first time the list had been changed since 1912! Now an official birthstone, Tanzanite is increasingly regarded as the ideal gem to celebrate new life and new beginnings. This belief has its roots in Masai tradition, where blue is believed to be a sacred spiritual color and bestowed in the form of blue beads and robes to women who have borne children. Today, this tradition has evolved, with Masai chiefs giving Tanzanite to wives on the birth of a baby. This gift is believed to bless their child with a healthy, positive and successful life.
Tanzanite continues to be all the rage in contemporary jewelry. Tom Ford, formerly “enfant terrible” of the Paris and Milan fashion house Gucci, once dominated the catwalks with a collection modeling exotic blue gems, including Tanzanite.
At the 2004 Oscars, Eileen Penn, mother of OSCAR® winner Sean Penn, stole the limelight from her son with a stunning Tanzanite and Diamond cross pendant.
Just the facts
A key ingredient in Tanzanite’s success is that it exhibits more shades of blue than a clear midnight sky due to a phenomenon called pleochroism, whereby different colors are seen in different directions of the gemstone. Tanzanite is extremely light sensitive, frequently exhibiting a color shift from more bluish hues under daylight, to pinkish violets under incandescent lighting (candlelight). While the best examples show an intense blue under any light, most of the time, you can actually see both colors simultaneously. As an allochromatic (other colored) gemstone, color saturation in Tanzanite is determined by the amount and ratio of chromium and vanadium trace elements. Whether you choose a pastel or richer colored Tanzanite is down to your preference and budget, but please be aware that Tanzanite’s colorful brilliance intensifies in larger sizes – you’re generally not going to find deeper colors in smaller sizes.
As Tanzanite crystals occur with reasonably few inclusions, the standard is eye-clean (no visible inclusions when the gem is examined approximately 6 inches from the naked eye).
Tanzanite is found in a variety of shapes and cuts. Ovals and Cushions are the most common, but Rounds and other shapes are also seen. Regardless of the cut, look for good brilliance. While intense blues are favored, overly large or poorly cut examples can loose brilliance, making them appear too dark. Tanzanite can sometimes occur in extremely large sizes, but the most popular sizes for jewelry are below 20 carats. Tanzanite’s wonderful colors, clarity and range of imaginative cuts lend itself to prominent display. While fashionable drop-earrings and pendants accentuate Tanzanite’s inherent characteristics, it’s also popularly featured as large carat-sized solitaires mounted into prominent ring settings that show off its scintillating colors to full effect.
Exclusively mined in one deposit in East Africa in an area of Tanzania known as Merelani, Tanzanite is also coveted because of its rarity. The conditions involved in Tanzanite’s formation 585 million years ago saw the random incorporation of vanadium during an event so unique that experts believe the chance of Tanzanite occurring elsewhere is one in a million. The Tanzanite deposits are hosted in metamorphic rocks, marbles and schists that belong to the Mozambique Belt (Rift Valley). The deposits run through the low hills of Merelani that rise from the hot Sanya plains, close to Mount Kilimanjaro. Running at an angle of 41 degrees to the surface, the deposit line or horizon periodically folds over itself, creating pockets of Tanzanite. Barely covering 8 square miles, the Tanzanite mining area has been divided into four different sections known as “blocks” (lettered A, B, C and D) that have been allotted to different mining groups. Even at the largest and most sophisticated mine in operation in C block, the yield for raw Tanzanite crystals average only 22 carats (4.4 grams) per processed ton! Tanzanite production is slowly, but surely decreasing and many experts believe Tanzanite will disappear in years to come. Understandably, this has led to Tanzanite gaining considerable notoriety. After all, the desire to own something beautiful and rare is irresistible.
Although there are several Tanzanite grading systems available, they are all primarily concerned with judging color quality. This is because compared to Ruby, Sapphire and Emerald, Tanzanite is typically free from inclusions, making color the single most important factor when evaluating Tanzanite. Representing less than 1% of all Tanzanite mined, AAA Tanzanite is characterized by intensely deep purple blues and can be likened to an old French wine of an impossibly hard to obtain vintage. Interestingly, the D block section has earned the reputation for supplying the majority of AAA Tanzanite. AAA Tanzanite is the very best quality Tanzanite sold at GemsTV.
As Tanzanite typically starts its life as bluish burgundy crystals, virtually all Tanzanite has been heated to enhance their color. This is an accepted and permanent treatment that actually makes Tanzanite’s color-causing element, vanadium, more stable. Occasionally, this process produces highly coveted and extremely rare fancy colors (Pink Tanzanite, Green Tanzanite, Multi Color Tanzanite etc.). Possessing all the qualities of regular Tanzanite, these colored varieties are far less common and are highly coveted by collectors. In gemology, the technically correct name for these gems is “(Color Prefix) Zoisite.” However, “(Color Prefix) Tanzanite” is generally accepted in the marketplace due to the gem’s popularity and because this name specifies an origin.
Tanzanite exudes sophistication, individuality and self confidence. Tanzanite jewelry is suited to all ages, emphasizing the nonconformity of the young and the sophistication of the mature. However, Tanzanite is rare and growing rarer by the moment. Apart from the sheer pleasure of owning one of the 20th century’s most spectacular gemstones, those fortunate to already own a Tanzanite, or to purchase one before the only known deposit is depleted, truly are custodians of a gem whose legacy will be to pass it on as an heirloom to future generations.
Sunstone
Jul 20th
SUNSTONE
| SUNSTONE | Aventurescence |
| Origins | India, Madagascar, Norway, Russia, Tanzania, Tibet & USA |
| Colors Found | Green, color change, orange, red & yellow |
| Family | Feldspar |
| Hardness | 6 to 6.5 |
| Refractive Index | 1.52-1.57 |
| Specific Gravity | 2.55-2.72 |
Radiating with the power of eternal light, sunstone has been coveted since antiquity for its ability to guide its wearer through the journey of life. Sunstone is also known as aventurine feldspar or heliolite, from the Greek “helios” for sun and “lithos” for stone.
Legends and lore
An ancient gem, sunstone has allegedly been discovered in Viking burial mounds. It is thought that the Vikings actually used the light-polarizing properties of a stone to tell the direction of the sun on cloudy days. While this “sun stone” is thought to have actually been Iceland spar (calcite) or iolite, the name today is applied to a brilliant variety of feldspar.
Not only did the Vikings believe sunstone could aid navigation across the seas, but it was also considered a path-finding tool to Valhalla and the afterlife. Pope Clement VII (1478–1534) was reputed to have in his possession a sunstone with a golden spot that moved across the surface in accordance with the apparent motion of the sun from sunrise to sunset.
Native Americans in Oregon used sunstone for trade and barter. Oregon sunstone was declared the official gemstone of the State of Oregon in 1987. Sunstone is claimed by some sources to have been used by Tibetans in medicine rituals to help spirit guides access the healing power of the sun. When contact with the spirit guides was successful, the gem was said to glow a bright gold.
Crystal healers believe sunstone to be useful for adding personal insight and alleviating depression. Historically, sunstone has been linked with benevolent gods, luck and good fortune.
Just the facts
Sunstone is a member of the plagioclase feldspar group of minerals and occurs in the compositional range of oligoclase, labradorite and andesine. Orthoclase sunstones are also known.
The name feldspar comes from the German feldt spat, meaning field stone. So named, this is because when feldspar weathers, it releases large amounts of plant nutrients, such as potassium, which enrich soil.
Sunstone has a beautiful glittering sunlight effect as a result of its tiny metallic inclusions. The copper or hematite inclusions cause sparkling flashes of light as thousands of particles playfully interact with light, an effect known to gemologists as aventurescence. Many sunstones are cut as cabochons to display this phenomenon, but some may also be faceted to exhibit their superior luster.
Sunstone is formed and crystallized in lava flows, mica schists and pegmatites. The gem is typically mined with pick and shovel from the surface of partially decomposed rock or from shallow pits and shafts dug to retrieve the rough.
Sunstones range in color from water clear through pale yellow, soft pink and red to deep teal green. Some of the deeper colored gems have bands of varying color while others exhibit pleochroism, showing different colors when viewed in different directions.
The world’s most famous sunstone mines are in Oregon’s Harney and Lake counties, where a high copper content gives them their unique bright orange to red colors. Sunstone is also found in India, Canada, Tanzania, Tibet, Madagascar, Norway and Russia.
In 2002, a new supply of sunstone entered the market from an origin that is still subject to debate. Described variously as originating from the Congo and later from Tibet, testing proved the gems to be plagioclase feldspars in the labradorite/andesine compositional range. A swirling mix of coppery oranges, honeys, ambers, lemons and limes characterizes these sunstones, with a beautiful glittering sunlight effect caused by tiny copper inclusions.
While the copper and hematite inclusions in sunstone are predominantly orange or red, they sometimes disperse a fiery iridescence. This attractive blend of shimmering colors gives sunstone an appearance unlike any other gemstone. Fine sunstones are extremely rare and put this variety of feldspar in the same class as the best the gem kingdom has to offer.
Similar to alexandrite, the color change variety of chrysoberyl, in extremely rare specimens sunstone can also display the color change effect. In daylight it is green while in incandescent light it is a coppery red. Green and imperial (orange pink) sunstones are also available.
Tanzanian sunstone was first found by a young Masai man on tribal grazing lands near Arusha in 2000. This sunstone’s basic red-orange color mimics the bright hues of the Masai people’s dress. These gems have been marketed under various trade names, including illusion sunstone, tanzasun and Masai sunstone.
The Tanzanian sunstone features large flakes of vivid red and orange hematite, floating within a pale green to colorless feldspar matrix, with plates aligned parallel to cleavage planes. Local African miners call these large flakes flowers. In many cases, the hematite plates reflect a multitude of electric neon colors as the stones are rotated, creating a lovely kaleidoscope of color.
Cabochons with lots of hematite frequently display one or more cat’s-eye bands and weak stars are also found on occasion in some sunstones from Madagascar and Tanzania. This further accentuates sunstone’s natural sparkle.
Spinel
Jul 20th
SPINEL
| SPINEL | Once confused with Ruby and Sapphire |
| Origins | Madagascar, Tanzania & Vietnam |
| Colors Found | Various |
| Family | Spinel |
| Hardness | 8.00 |
| Refractive Index | 1.71 – 1.76 |
| Relative Density | 3.54 – 3.63 |
Spinel was once mistaken for Ruby and Sapphire, but it’s no impostor, rather a “master of disguise.” One of the gem kingdom’s best kept secrets, Spinel is treasured for its eternal brilliance and spectacular colors. Whether your fascination with gems is for their beauty, rarity or history, Spinel is a superb addition to your jewelry collection.
Spinel’s name is derived either from the Latin word for thorn “spina,” as a result of its characteristic octahedral crystals having pointed ends, or from the Greek word for spark “spintharis,” in reference to the gem’s bright red hues.
Legends and lore
Due to its mistaken identity, Spinel has few historical references. However, Spinels have a bizarre association with sorcerers and alchemists. Spinels were used by practitioners of the “dark arts” to summon demons and also used as amulets to protect them from fire. One tale describes how Spinels could be used to work against their masters. Those thought to possess supernatural powers were found guilty if they began to shake when approached with a Spinel wrapped in paper!
Spinels occupy a unique place in gemstone history. Despite being recognized as a separate gem species in 1587, up until the 19th century the intense coloration displayed by Noble Red Spinel led some to mistakenly identify this gem as Ruby. The source of confusion stemmed not only from color similarities but also the close proximity of their deposits. It was not until 1783 that Rome de Lisle became the first scientist to clearly distinguish differences between Ruby and Noble Red Spinel.
Noble Red Spinel’s near identical resemblance to Ruby results in it being a prodigious, albeit accidental feature in many of the world’s most famous gem collections, including the Vatican’s and the Crown Jewels of Russia, Iran and England. Interestingly, both the legendary 352 carat “Timur Ruby” and the 170 carat “Black Prince’s Ruby,” which feature in the British Imperial State Crown proved to be Noble Red Spinel!
In 1415 at the Battle of Agincourt the English King, Henry V wore a helmet garnished with jewels including the “Black Prince’s Ruby.” During the battle, the French commander, the Duke of Alencon, struck Henry’s head a mighty blow with his battle-axe, nearly killing the King. Surprisingly, the force of the blow glanced off the Spinel saving his life and allowed Henry to lead his troops to what many thought would be an impossible victory.
Just the facts
The reality behind Noble Red Spinel’s Ruby-like appearance is its proximity to Corundum deposits, the base mineral of Rubies and Sapphires, and chromium, the midas element responsible for giving both Noble Red Spinels and Rubies their deep red color.
Today, Spinels can be easily identified by their refractivity. Since Noble Red Spinels are singly refractive and Rubies doubly refractive, the primary color in Noble Red Spinels appears purer and more intense than the reds seen in many Rubies.
Spinel occurs in many colors including red, blue, pink, orange and a plethora of other fancy colors. Apart from color prefixes, some of Spinel’s variety names include:
| Almandine Spinel | The violet variety of Spinel. |
| Balas Ruby | This is an historical name for Spinel, which referred to the country of origin; either Badakshan in Tajikistan or the Balaksh region of Sri Lanka. |
| Cobalt Blue Spinel | Resembling fine Sapphires, these exceptional Blue Spinels from Sri Lanka and Tanzania are colored by Cobalt. Regular Blue Spinel also hails from Tanzania and displays similar visual similarities to Sapphire, particularly those from Montana, US. |
| Flame Spinel | The orange-red variety of Spinel. |
| Gahnite or Gahnospinel | Named after Swedish chemist L. G. Gahn, it is the rare greenish or bluish, zinc-rich variety of Spinel. |
| Noble Red Spinel | The Ruby red variety of Spinel that was historically mistaken for Ruby. |
| Rubicelle | The yellow to orange variety of Spinel. |
Spinels are mined from alluvial deposits or directly from large granular granite or other igneous host rocks. Spinels come from a handful of sources including Madagascar, Tunduru in Tanzania’s remote southeast and central Vietnam’s Luc Yen region. While most gemstone aficionados know Burma to be the classic and most familiar source for fine Noble Red Spinel, new discoveries in Tanzania’s Kilimanjaro region are shifting paradigms. Tanzanian Noble Red Spinel is increasingly acclaimed for its bright red hues and a brilliance and luster that defy verbal description.
Perfect octahedral crystals are sometimes set into jewelry in their original uncut octahedral shapes. The Burmese refer to these gems as “nat thwe,” meaning spirit polished. Sometimes “nat thwe” Spinels will receive a very light polishing.
Pure Spinel is white, but impurities give it a wide range of colors. Almost all colors are used in jewelry, but the most valuable and popular color is Noble Red Spinel. Occasionally, color change varieties are found, turning color from a light gray blue in daylight to a light purple under candlelight.
Even though they are more affordable, did you know that Spinels are rarer than Rubies? In the gem kingdom, “rare” can be both a blessing and a curse, as this affects market prices and availability. This is unfortunate for the Spinel miner, but great news for everyone else as they are one of nature’s most beautiful treasures.
Spinels are intensely colored durable gemstones perfect for all jewelry. Spinel’s high refractive index makes cutting very important, as the quality of the cut will affect its brilliance. Naturally, all Spinels sold at GemsTV are faceted by experienced cutters who always take each gemstone’s physical properties and individual attributes into consideration.
Sphene
Jul 20th
SPHENE
| SPHENE | Fire greater than Diamond |
| Origins | Brazil, Madagascar, Pakistan & Sri Lanka |
| Colors Found | Yellowish-green |
| Family | Sphene |
| Hardness | 5.00 – 5.50 |
| Refractive Index | 1.84 – 2.11 |
| Relative Density | 3.52 – 3.54 |
Sphene is named after the Greek word for wedge, because its crystals are typically wedge shaped. As it contains titanium, Sphene is also sometimes referred to by its mineral name, Titanite.
One of the world’s newest and rarest gems, Sphene possesses the rather unusual ability to take a beam of light and break it into all of the spectral colors, a feature gemologically referred to as fire or dispersion. In this regard Sphene is superior to Diamond. This combined with its strong pleochroism (different colors are displayed when the gemstone is viewed from different angles) has the effect of making the gem appear to change color. Occasionally pink, black or chocolate, most Sphene is predominantly green or yellowish-green, with just about every other color of the rainbow displayed by its intense fiery brilliance.
Just the facts
Sphene makes gorgeously brilliant, fiery gems that have a higher dispersion (fire) than Diamonds.
Sphene’s magnificent fire, unique color shades, strong pleochroism, adamantine (Diamond-like) luster and double refraction (birefringence) make it ideal for earrings and pendants that catch the light, displaying its sparkling qualities to full effect. A unique characteristic of Sphene is birefringence (doubly refractive), meaning that light splits into two rays as it passes through the gem. As a result, the back facets appear as double images giving it a beautiful soft hazy appearance similar to the doubling seen in Zircon. If well polished the luster can approach or equal that of Diamond, but Sphene is notoriously difficult to polish well. A well polished Sphene is testament to an experienced jeweler. At GemsTV we always take great care to ensure that our Sphene is finished in a manner that maximizes its intense natural beauty. Sphene larger than a few carats without inclusions is extremely scarce.
Sillimanite
Jul 20th
SILLIMANITE
| SILLIMANITE | Polymorph |
| Origins | Brazil, India & Sri Lanka |
| Colors Found | Blue, brown, colorless, green, white & yellow |
| Family | Sillimanite |
| Hardness | 6.00 – 7.00 |
| Refractive Index | 1.65 – 1.68 |
| Relative Density | 3.24 |
Beautiful and rare, Sillimanite is named for the famous American geologist Benjamin Silliman (1779-1864). Sillimanite is sometime referred to as Fibrolite. Sillimanite is not only scarce, but also difficult for miners to identify and problematic for cutters. These three attributes combine to ensure that Sillimanite remains a true exotic gemstone.
Just the facts
Sillimanite is formed from aluminum silicate and is usually found as silky, fibrous crystals suitable for cabochons. Transparent crystals suitable for faceting display a glassy luster and are exceedingly scarce. Sillimanite is colorless, white, brown, yellow, blue and green in color.
Sillimanite is typically found scattered within layers of metamorphic rocks that have been put under great pressure and high temperature. This is why Sillimanite is commonly found in volcanic or hot spring areas. Because of the way it is scattered within the host rocks, miners often have difficulty in detecting Sillimanite.
Sillimanite is a polymorph with two other minerals, Kyanite and Andalusite. A polymorph is a mineral that shares the same chemistry but a different crystal structure with another, or other, minerals. This is unusual, and due to its brittleness, Sillimanite is very difficult to facet. Some 50% of gem quality crystals can be damaged during the faceting and fashioning process alone!
Some Sillimanite crystals demonstrate chatoyancy (also known as the “cat’s eye effect,” caused by minerals reflecting a single band of light back to the eye) and asterism (also known as the “star effect,” this is caused by minerals reflecting a star of light back to the eye). These optical effects are highly coveted and well-suited to cabochon rings and earrings.
Sapphire
Jul 20th
SAPPHIRE
| SAPPHIRE | September’s birthstone |
| Origins | Australia, Cambodia, China, Kenya, Madagascar, Nigeria, Sri Lanka, Tanzania, Thailand & Vietnam |
| Colors Found | Various |
| Family | Corundum |
| Hardness | 9.00 |
| Refractive Index | 1.76 – 1.78 |
| Relative Density | 3.95 – 4.03 |
Sapphires derive their name from the Latin word “sapphirus,” meaning blue, and are often referred to as the “gem of the heavens” or the “celestial gem,” as their colors mirror the sky at different times of the day.
The word Sapphire, stated without a prefix, implies Blue Sapphires only. Sapphires of all other colors are assigned a color prefix or are collectively termed “Fancy Sapphires.”
Legends and lore
Blue is one of the favorite colors of both men and women and is a color psychologically linked to the emotions of sympathy, calmness and loyalty.
Legend has it that the first person to wear a Sapphire was Prometheus, the rival of Zeus, who took the gemstone from Cacaus, where he also stole fire from heaven for man.
The ancient Persians believed Sapphires were a chip from the pedestal that supported the earth and that its reflections gave the sky its colors.
Sapphire is mentioned in the Bible as being one of the twelve “stones of fire” (Ezekiel 28:13-16) that were given to Moses and set in the breastplate of Aaron (Exodus 28:15-30). Sapphire is also one of the twelve gemstones set in the foundations of the city walls of Jerusalem (Revelations 21:19) and associated with the Apostle St. Paul.
The guardians of innocence, Sapphires symbolize truth, sincerity and faithfulness, and are thought to bring peace, joy and wisdom to their owners. The ancient Sinhalese believed that the powers of wisdom were contained within Sapphires and that when the wearer of a Sapphire faced challenging obstacles the gem’s power enabled them to find the correct solution.
In India it was believed that a Sapphire immersed in water formed an elixir that could cure the bite of scorpions and snakes. Alternatively, if it were worn as a talisman pendant, it would protect the wearer against evil spirits.
The following legend is Burmese in origin and highlights Sapphires’ connection with faithfulness: “Eons ago Tsun-Kyan-Kse, a golden haired goddess with Sapphire blue eyes, presided lovingly over the temple of Lao-Tsun. Everyday, the temple’s chief monk Mun-Ha, meditated before the golden goddess accompanied by his devoted companion, a green-eyed cat named Sinh. One day the temple was besieged by a group of terrible outlaws. When they threw Mun-Ha to the floor, Sinh leapt fiercely at the bandits, jumping up on his master’s chest to protect him. The wrong doers fled screaming in fear, never to return and in gratitude for his courage, the golden goddess awarded Sinh with her Sapphire blue eyes. To this day, Sinh’s ancestors guard over the temple.” The temple still stands and is populated by Siamese cats with striking blue eyes (typically this breed has green eyes).
For hundreds of years Blue Sapphires were the popular choice for engagement and wedding rings.
Just the facts
The modern popularity of Padparadscha and Pink Sapphires aside, Blue Sapphires are traditionally the most coveted members of the Sapphire family. Coming in a wide variety of hues, Sapphires range in color from pastel blues all the way through to the depths of midnight blue. Sapphires are identical to Ruby (the red variety of Corundum), except for one key component, their color. Sapphires are “allochromatic” (other colored) gems and obtain their colors due to the presence of trace elements including iron and titanium. The crystalline form of aluminum oxide, the name Corundum is believed to be derived from three ancient Tamil, Hindi and Sanskrit words for Rubies and Sapphires, “kurundam”, “kurund” or “kuruvinda” respectively.
While personal preference should always be your primary concern when purchasing colored gemstones, Sapphires that sit in the middle of the blue color range are historically the most coveted.
Sapphires are one of the toughest gemstones, second in hardness only to Diamonds. Corundum is primarily mined from alluvial deposits formed by weathered Corundum bearing rocks, and only occasionally from host rock deposits just beneath the earth’s surface.
Asterism or the “star effect” is a reflection effect that appears as two or more intersecting bands of light across the surface of a gem. This rare phenomenon is found in both Sapphires and Rubies. Asterism in Corundum is due to reflections from multitudes of exsolved needle inclusions (silk), which in most varieties consist of rutile.
As Sapphires from different locations can vary slightly in appearance, some of the main sources and varieties are detailed below.
Australian Sapphire
Some of the finest Sapphires in the world herald from this sun-burnt country. Top quality Australian Sapphires exhibit brilliant cornflower blues usually associated with those from Ceylon (Sri Lanka). Sapphires have been mined in Australia for over 100 years. The majority of Australian Sapphires come from three fields: the Anakie fields in central Queensland, the Lava Plains in northern Queensland and the New England fields around Inverell in the northeast of New South Wales.
During the 1980′s Australia produced approximately 70% of the world’s Sapphires and although production has decreased, international demand for Australian Sapphires remains high. Sapphires found in Australia originate from similar geological conditions to those of Thailand, Cambodia and parts of Madagascar, and thus possess similar characteristics.
Ceylon Sapphire (Sri Lanka)
A renowned source for gemstones, the island of Ceylon (renamed Sri Lanka in 1972) holds the earliest records for the mining of Sapphires (known in Sri Lanka as “nilkata”). A classic source of quality Sapphires since antiquity, King Solomon reportedly wooed the Queen of Sheba with Sri Lankan Sapphires. Sapphires from Sri Lanka first appeared in western jewelry among the Etruscans (600 – 275 BC) and were used by the Greeks and Romans from approximately 480 BC onward.
In Sri Lanka Sapphire mining occurs in the gem rich alluvial gravels found beneath the tea-covered slopes of Elahera and Ratnapura (which literally means “gem city”). Dating to 2,500 years ago, Ratnapura holds one of the earliest records for the mining of Sapphires. Located approximately 62 miles southeast of Sri Lanka’s capital city Colombo, Ratnapura is the main alluvial gem bed found in Sri Lanka. Here Sapphires are found embedded in layers of gravel and sand, in river beds, marshes, and fields or accumulated at the foot of hills. The alluvial deposits are commonly reached by 66 – 98 foot shafts where the gem rich gravel layer is laboriously extracted by hand.
Noted for their royal and cornflower blues, Ceylon Sapphires are synonymous with top quality and are highly coveted. At GemsTV, we correctly use the prefix “Ceylon” to denote a quality as well as an origin (not all Sri Lankan Sapphires can be called “Ceylon”). Ceylon Sapphires received a boost in their popularity in 1981 when Prince Charles gave Lady Diana an engagement ring set with a stunning 18 carat Ceylon Sapphire.
Kanchanaburi Sapphire (Thailand)
The sleepy province of Kanchanaburi, renowned for the bridge over the River Kwai, rests among the jungle valleys of western Thailand. Kanchanaburi’s Bo Ploi Sapphire mines were discovered in 1918 and today remain one of world’s premier sources of Blue Sapphires. The Sapphires of Bo Ploi are mined from alluvial deposits spread over 1.2 square miles. The miners of Bo Ploi must unearth over 50 tons of alluvial soil to extract just 1 carat of Sapphire crystals. Sapphires have been heavily mined from the Bo Ploi mines in the last ten years and are approaching depletion. This increasing rarity makes these Sapphires a must for any jewelry collection.
Madagascan Sapphire
Today, Madagascar also provides some of the highest quality Sapphires. Sapphires were first unearthed on this island in the early 1990′s. The Madagascan gem fields now reportedly account for approximately 20% of the world’s Sapphires. The majority of Madagascar’s Sapphires come from the prolific gem fields of Ilakaka, Antiermene and Diego Suarez.
Midnight Blue Sapphire
Midnight Blue Sapphires combine deep rich colors and a spellbinding luster all in one gemstone. Deep blues intermingle in Midnight Blue Sapphires as if to reveal the secret of the sky at night. This accentuates their luster and is one reason for their enduring popularity. Mined in a wide variety of countries including Madagascar, Australia, Nigeria, Thailand, Vietnam and China, Midnight Blue Sapphires are a gemstone whose colors are beyond vivid. But there is nothing black about Midnight Blue Sapphire. To visualize this, think of the color of a desert sky shortly after the sun has set, with stars rising in the distance. This is the color of Midnight Blue Sapphire, an intense azure hue unmatched in the gem kingdom.
Nigerian Sapphire
Nigeria plays a key role in supplying the world with some of the most popular gemstones. Nigerian Sapphires are mined at Nisama Jama’a in Nigeria’s Kaduna State.
Pailin Sapphire (Cambodia)
The Cambodian city of Pailin (the ancient Khmer word for “Blue Sapphire”) is steeped in local folklore regarding its precious treasures: “Long ago, people hunting in the forests around Pailin encountered a magical old lady called Yiey Yat (“yiey” means grandmother in Khmer) living as a hermit in the mountains. Fearing for the local wildlife, she told the villagers that if they stopped hunting, the gods would reward them with something of far greater value in the streams and rivers of Mount Yat. The people went there and saw an otter (“pey” in Khmer) playing (“leng” in Khmer) in a stream. Swimming up to them, when the otter opened its mouth, it was full of gems!” As a result, the area and its Sapphires are known as “pey leng,” which when translated to Thai became Pailin. Even today, many people visit the shrine of Yiey Yat to ask her for riches.
Shangdong Sapphire (China)
While China has never been considered an historical source of Corundum (domestic finds were not reported until the late 1970′s), the Chinese were aware of and coveted Ruby and Sapphire from other locales as early as 319 AD. Chinese Sapphire deposits are widely distributed over 20 of the country’s provinces, although they are mainly found along the eastern coastline. In all of these places, Sapphires occur in basalts, similar to those mined in Australia. Among these localities, the deposit in Shangdong province has the best quality. Shangdong Sapphire was discovered near Wutu, Changle County, Shangdong province in the late 1980′s, initially in alluvial deposits and later in the host basalt. Gem mining occurs in the secondary alluvial deposits while the primary deposits are worked for mineral specimens. Generally, Chinese Blue Sapphires have a deep blue color, but similar to Sapphires from Ban Kha Ja, Chanthaburi and Australia, greenish blues and yellows are also found. Chinese Sapphires are a lot more than dark inky gems that appear more black than blue. While Shangdong Sapphire has royal blues that are beyond vivid, it also has a transparency far greater than most Midnight Blue Sapphire. In the Shangdong province there are reportedly at least 20 small Sapphire mines operated by 200 – 300 miners.
Umba River Sapphire (Tanzania)
On the Great North Road in Tanzania, between the plains of the Serengeti and the foothills of Mount Kilimanjaro lies Arusha, the gateway to the beating heart of Africa and home to the fabled gemstone mines of the Umba Valley. Collecting in rich alluvial deposits that run the course of the valley, Umba River Sapphires are sourced using age-old mining techniques by Waarusha and Wameru miners whose knowledge of gemstones has been handed down for generations.
Ruby
Jul 20th
RUBY
| RUBY | July’s birthstone |
| Origins | India, Kenya, Madagascar, Mozambique, Sri Lanka, Tanzania, Thailand & Vietnam |
| Colors Found | Red |
| Family | Corundum |
| Hardness | 9.00 |
| Refractive Index | 1.76 – 1.78 |
| Relative Density | 3.97 – 4.05 |
The beauty, rarity and historical mystique of Rubies are undeniable. Ruby derives its name from the Latin word for red, “rufus.” Ruby is July’s birthstone, the gemstone for Capricorns and the traditional 15th and 40th anniversary gift.
Legends and lore
The historical mystique and beauty of Rubies is as colorful as the legends and lore that surround this most precious of gems.
The earliest record for the mining of Rubies dates to more than 2,500 years ago in Sri Lanka, “the jewel box of the Indian Ocean,” where it is called “rathu kata.” Rubies from Sri Lanka first appeared in western jewelry among the Etruscans (600 – 275 BC) and were used by the Greeks and Romans from approximately 480 BC onward.
Prized throughout history, many believed that mystical powers lay hidden within this intensely colored red gemstone. The fiery crimson color of Rubies caused many civilizations to associate them with passion, love and romance. Rubies were also thought to bestow wisdom, health and luck in gambling. According to oriental beliefs, Ruby is the “gem of the sun.”
Mentioned in Sanskrit texts, the ancient Hindus were so enchanted by the color of Rubies that they called them “ratnaraj,” the king of gems. The ancient Hindus thought that the colors of Rubies were due to an inextinguishable fire that burned inside the gem that would endow its wearer with long life and even cause water to boil!
As in Sanskrit texts, biblical references to Ruby (all red gemstones were also collectively called Carbuncle at this time) refer to it as a most precious gem. In the King James Version of the Bible, Ruby (and its namesake Carbuncle) is mentioned numerous times:
Exodus 28:17
And thou shalt set in it settings of stones, even four rows of stones: the first row shall be a Sardius, a Topaz, and a Carbuncle: this shall be the first row.
Exodus 39:10
And they set in it four rows of stones: the first row was a Sardius, a Topaz, and a Carbuncle: this was the first row.
Ezekiel 28:13
Thou hast been in Eden the garden of God; every precious stone was thy covering, the Sardius, Topaz, and the Diamond, the Beryl, the Onyx, and the Jasper, the Sapphire, the Emerald, and the Carbuncle, and Gold: the workmanship of thy tabrets and of thy pipes was prepared in thee in the day that thou wast created.
Isaiah 54:12
And I will make thy windows of Agates, and thy gates of Carbuncles, and all thy borders of pleasant stones.
Job 28:18
No mention shall be made of Coral, or of Pearls: for the price of wisdom is above Rubies.
Proverbs 3:15
She is more precious than Rubies: and all the things thou canst desire are not to be compared unto her.
Proverbs 8:11
For wisdom is better than Rubies; and all the things that may be desired are not to be compared to it.
Proverbs 20:15
There is gold, and a multitude of Rubies: but the lips of knowledge are a precious jewel.
Lamentations 4:7
Her Nazarites were purer than snow, they were whiter than milk, they were more ruddy in body than Rubies, their polishing was of Sapphire.
Interestingly, the gems called “Rubies” in the Old Testament may have actually been Spinel or Garnet. Up until the 18th century, when chemical testing was improved, most red gems were called Rubies. In fact, many of the famous Rubies in the crown jewels of Europe have since been identified as Spinel or Garnet. For example, the Black Prince Ruby that rests proudly at the centre of the British Imperial State Crown is actually a red Spinel!
Ancient Sinhalese legends (modern day Sri Lanka) relate the story of the destruction of their demonic King Ravana. They believed that after his demise, his blood turned into Rubies resulting in their intense red color.
For over 2,000 years Sri Lanka has supplied the world with fine Star Rubies. In fact, Sri Lanka was most probably the original source of this gem. The ancient Sinhalese believed that a Star Ruby protected the wearer from witchcraft. It was considered so powerful a talisman that even when the original owner passed the gem onto someone else, they continued to receive its protection. In Europe, Star Rubies were sometimes called “the three swords” and were said to chase away evil, bring good luck and assist one in finding a fine spouse.
Native Americans believed that offerings of a fine Ruby resulted in rebirth as a powerful Chief.
Some cultures believed Ruby’s blood-like color would protect the wearer from injury. In fact, ancient Burmese warriors believed that when a Ruby was inserted beneath the skin it generated a mystical force, making them unconquerable in battle. Rubies were once known by the Burmese as “blood drops from the heart of the Mother Earth” and were worn by them as a talisman to protect against illness or misfortune.
Dr. Edward Gübelin’s book, “Burma, Land der Pagoden” (Burma, Land of Pagodas), includes a famous Burmese Ruby legend: “One day, the king of the valley, a grand old eagle, was circling over his kingdom and searching for a worthy prey. As he spread his circles ever wider in the shining blue of the heavens, he suddenly spied on the valley floor a piece of fresh meat of the color of purest blood and more enticing than he had ever seen in all his flights throughout the whole world. There is the noble food, for which I have been yearning, said the lord in the air, and plunged down on to his chosen prey. But his claws, whose sharpness and strength had hitherto hooked into the thickest skin, could do nothing against this presumed prey, colored like a living heart. He kept on attacking – he, the lord of the valley, accustomed to victory! – But in vain! He began to fear that age had impaired his strength, so he ascended into the air to think it over. He also sought out other prey in order to test his strength, but left it lying carelessly as soon as he had convinced himself of his undiminished powers, in order to renew his attack on the coveted piece of booty. Finally, it dawned on him: this was no piece of flesh, but a hallowed stone, fashioned out of fire and the blood of Mother Earth. Reverently, the wise old King of the Birds grasped it and carried it to the highest summit of the highest mountain – unattainable to all living beings on this earth. The valley in which he had found the precious stone was Mogok, and the stone the first Ruby in the world”.
In the 13th century, the renowned explorer Marco Polo wrote that Kublai Kahn, the Mongol Emperor of China, once offered an entire city for a Ruby the size of a man’s finger.
Because of its fluorescent properties, a giant Ruby once lit an entire chamber in a palace of a Chinese emperor!
In the Middle Ages, Rubies were thought to contain prophetic powers. It was believed that a Ruby could warn its owner of misfortunes by deepening in color.
Ralph Waldo Emerson, an American essayist, poet, and leader of the transcendentalist movement in the early 19th century, wrote the following poem about Rubies: “They brought me Rubies from the mine, and held them to the sun; I said, “They are drops of frozen wine from Eden’s vats that run.” I look’d again – I thought them hearts of friends, to friends unknown; Tides that should warm each neighboring life are lock’d in sparkling stone. But fire to thaw that ruddy snow, to break enchanted ice, and give love’s scarlet tides to flow, when shall that sun arise?”
Just the facts
As “allochromatic” (other colored) gems, Ruby’s colors are due to trace elements. Apart from their color, Rubies are identical to Sapphires and are comprised of the mineral known as Corundum. The crystalline form of aluminum oxide, the name Corundum is believed to be derived from three ancient Tamil, Hindi and Sanskrit words for Rubies and Sapphires, “kurundam,” “kurund” or “kuruvinda” respectively.
Did you know that Rubies are rarer than Diamonds? In the last 60 years hardly a month has passed without a new Diamond deposit being discovered. In contrast, Rubies are only found in a handful of mines worldwide.
Did you know that Rubies are more expensive than Diamonds? A 16 carat Ruby that sold at Sotheby’s in New York in October 1988 fetched a staggering US$3,630,000! Rubies are one of the world?s most expensive gems, but like all gems, quality determines price.
Second only to Diamonds in hardness, Rubies are one of the toughest gemstones and with no cleavage, breakage rarely occurs. This combined with the fact that Rubies come in many different shapes and sizes, makes them perfect for all types of jewelry.
Color is the most important factor when evaluating Rubies. While cutting and size (fine Rubies over 2 carats are very scarce) is also important, transparency is secondary. Why is this? Colored by chromium and other trace elements, Rubies formed millions of years ago deep within the earth. As very few Rubies crystallized undisturbed, a whole host of tiny irregularities (inclusions) are a characteristic of their formation. Far from being flaws, inclusions are a fascinating hallmark of authenticity that records a gem’s natural relationship with the Earth. In terms of clarity, Rubies tend to be less clean than Sapphires.
While color preferences are subjective, the best Rubies possess an intense, almost electric red effect in daylight due to fluorescence. The ideal Ruby displays an intense, rich crimson without being too light or too dark. But as Rubies come in many different colors and sizes, ultimately your personal preference should be your primary concern. Remember, beauty is in the eye of the beholder and will also be tempered by what you can afford.
Microscopic rutile inclusions, commonly known as “silk,” are a normal characteristic of Rubies. When evenly distributed, small quantities of “silk” enhance a Ruby’s beauty and value by creating a soft uniform distribution of sparkling light.
Asterism or the “star effect” is a reflection effect that appears as two or more intersecting bands of light across the surface of a gem. This rare phenomenon is found in both Rubies and Sapphires. Asterism in Corundum is due to reflections from multitudes of exsolved needle inclusions (silk), which in most varieties consist of rutile.
Burma, by reputation and experience, continues to produce some of the world’s finest Rubies. While the original locality for Ruby was most likely Sri Lanka (Ceylon), the classic source is the Mogok Stone Tract in upper Burma. So much so that one of the recognized titles of the Kings of Burma was “Lord of the Rubies.” You may have noticed throughout the book that I call the country “Burma” not Myanmar. In 1989 the charismatic opposition leader Aung San Suu Kui was placed under house arrest and the country was renamed Myanmar. Many democrats oppose the name change and I follow their example.
While “pigeon’s blood” was once used to describe a rare and valuable Burmese Ruby color it has now largely fallen out of use – when you think about it, this description is a little grotesque. Burmese Rubies come from the Mogok Valley in north-central Burma and Möng Hsu in northeast Burma (also spelt Monghsu or Maing Hsu, it is pronounced “Mong-Shoe”).
Möng Hsu is 140 miles southeast of Mogok. It is located between the Nam Pang and Salween Rivers. It is closed to foreigners and the road is so bad it takes around 14 hours to travel there from the nearest town of Taunggyi. Typical of many areas in Burma’s Shan States, the population of the Möng Hsu area consist of Shans in the valleys with hill tribes (Palaungs at Möng Hsu) living in the mountains. The Palaungs cultivated tea before the discovery of Ruby. While Ruby mining in Mogok dates to the 6th century, Rubies were not discovered in Möng Hsu until 1991 when a local resident, who used to be a Ruby miner at Mogok, went bathing in the Nam Nga stream and found red gems between his toes and among the pebbles on the river’s banks. Thus began Burma’s most recent Ruby rush as the town’s population quadrupled overnight from approximately 8,000 people to over 30,000 people at the peak. This tapered off by 1993, but since the advent of high temperature treatment Möng Hsu has become increasingly important source of Burmese Ruby. You can learn more about gemstone treatments here.
Ruby mining in Burma was initially restricted to alluvial deposits, but has now also moved to host rock deposits in the surrounding hills. Burma’s Rubies occur in a crystalline limestone (marble). Millions of years of weathering freed the Rubies from their host rock, carrying them down from the hills to the valley floors, where they have settled in the bottom of the streams and rivers. It is from these ancient alluvial river gravels (know in Burma as “byon”) that the majority of gems have been recovered.
Our Madagascan Rubies are mined at high altitude in a relatively new deposit found in July 2004, deep within an impenetrable jungle. The only way to reach the Ruby mines near the mining village of Moramanga is by helicopter or a grueling long day’s trek (11 hours) on a muddy trail through dense mountainous rainforest from the Madagascan town of Andilamena. However, since mid-2006 these deposits have reportedly been nearing depletion. This increasing scarcity makes these Rubies a must for any jewelry collection.
Apart from Madagascar, we also source Rubies from India, Kenya, Mozambique, Sri Lanka, Tanzania, Vietnam and of course, Thailand. However, strict environmental regulations combined with depletion have resulted in the reduction of Thai gem mining.
With approximately 70% of the world’s Sapphire output and 90% of its Ruby production passing though Thailand (Source: ICA 2006 World Colored Gemstone Mining Report), our gemstone buyers are among the first to choose the finest examples.
Quartz
Jul 20th
QUARTZ
| QUARTZ | Ancient gemstone |
| Origins | Australia, Bolivia, Brazil, India, Kenya, Madagascar, Mozambique, Mexico, Russia, South Africa, Tanzania, Uraguay & Zambia |
| Colors Found | Various |
| Family | Quartz |
| Hardness | 6.50 – 7.00 |
| Refractive Index | 1.53 – 1.55 |
| Relative Density | 2.58 – 2.91 |
The Greeks originally named Quartz “krystallos,” meaning ice, but this term was soon applied to any crystal. In fact, the modern name of Quartz is derived from the Saxon word “querklufterz,” meaning “cross-vein-ore.”
Although Quartz of sufficient beauty to be set into jewelry is not available in great abundance, Quartz is found in many geological environments and is a component of almost every rock type. It is also the most varied in terms of varieties, colors and forms. The gem varieties of Quartz have been used as gemstones for thousands of years.
Legends and lore
The ancients of India considered Quartz to have special properties as transformers as well as keepers of energy. To this day Quartz crystals are used universally in meditation, as they are believed to possess healing properties and other diverse metaphysical powers.
Folklorists classify Quartz as a receptive gemstone credited with the ability to attract positive energies, such as peace and love. The subtle energy of Quartz is said to balance the emotions, giving inner peace, harmony and enhancing the bonds of relationships. It is also said to calm aggression and increase self-esteem.
Just the facts
Quartz gemstones are commonly separated into two groups based on the size of their individual crystals.
The macrocrystalline Quartz (large crystal) group includes many popular gemstones such as Amethyst, Ametrine, Citrine, Green Amethyst (Prasiolite), Rose Quartz, Rutilated Quartz, Smoky Quartz and Tiger’s Eye.
Cryptocrystalline Quartz includes species whose individual crystals are too small to be easily distinguished. Apart from being a variety within the group, Chalcedony is also a catchall term to describe cryptocrystalline Quartz and includes many gems that have been coveted since antiquity such as Agate, Carnelian, Sard, Chrysoprase, Bloodstone and Jasper.
Phenomena sometimes observed in Quartz include asterism (star effect) and chatoyancy (cat’s eye effect).
Amethyst is the queen of the Quartz varieties and in better qualities it is among the most coveted of Quartzes.
Ametrine is a multicolor variety that is part Amethyst colored and part Citrine colored.
Blue Moon Quartz is also called Dumortierite Quartz or sometimes just Dumortierite. It is an opaque to translucent blue variety of Quartz, owing its color to microscopic inclusions of fibrous magnesioriebeckite or crocidolite. Blue Moon Quartz is from one of the old mines of southern Brazil in a region called Uruguaiana in the Rio Grande Do Sul state. The “Blue Moon” prefix is self-explanatory: the gem looks like a full moon shimmering on a clear night. For crystal healers, Blue Moon Quartz is a gem that can enhance organizational abilities, self discipline and orderliness.
Citrine is a yellow variety of Quartz that takes its name from “citron,” the French word for lemon.
Phantom Quartz (also known as Ghost Crystals, Specter Crystals and Shadow Crystals) is an unusual gemstone that exhibits a phenomenon called a “phantom.” Phantoms can sometimes be seen in the interior of Quartz crystals as a permanent record of earlier stages in the crystal’s formation, much like growth rings in a tree.
Green Amethyst (Prasiolite) is a confusing gem as it is traded under a variety of names and can easily be mistaken for other gem types.
Rainbow Quartz (including Lavender Quartz, Neptune Quartz, Fuchsia Quartz and Coral Quartz) is visually similar to Mystic Topaz and is produced using the same physical vapor deposition (PVD) coating process. Applied to top quality natural White Quartz, the treatment is permanent with normal wear.
Smoky Quartz is an earth toned transparent Quartz that comes in a variety of shades, including cognac. Also known as “champagne on ice,” Smoky Quartz gets its rich warm colors from aluminum. A variety of Smoky Quartz is Cairngorm, which owes its name to the legendary source in the Scottish Highlands. Smoky Quartz is the national gem of Scotland, whose national scepter includes a large Smoky Quartz.
Rock Crystal (also known as White Quartz) is colorless Quartz.
Rose Quartz is the pink variety of Quartz. Rarely transparent, facet grade gems will usually display a beautiful misty appearance.
Golden Rutile Quartz (also known as Rutilite, Rutilated Quartz, Venus’ Hair or Cupid’s Darts) is a beautiful gemstone produced by large inclusions of golden rutile needles in clear colorless Quartz.
Tiger’s Eye is simply chatoyant Quartz
Star Quartz is a fascinating gem that clearly displays asterism (star effect) and is colorless, blue, pink or silver. The stars are six-rayed and roll around the gem as it is moved.
Pyrite
Jul 20th
PYRITE
| PYRITE | Called Marcasite in the jewelry trade |
| Origins | Austria, China, Mexico, Romania, Russia & South Africa |
| Colors Found | Golden yellow |
| Family | Pyrite |
| Hardness | 6.00 – 6.50 |
| Refractive Index | Cannot be determined |
| Relative Density | 5.00 – 5.20 |
Pyrite has a shiny golden yellow color and a metallic luster. The name comes from the Greek word “pyr,” meaning “a gemstone that strikes fire.” This is due to the sparks produced when Pyrite strikes iron. While Pyrite is often mistaken for gold, they are differentiated by Pyrite’s lighter, tougher, broken faced grains. As only a fool would mistake it for gold, Pyrite is also known as “fool’s gold.”
Marcasite is often used as a jewelry trade name for Pyrite. Although they are called Marcasite, they are actually Pyrite, as true Marcasite is unsuitable for jewelry. The confusion between the two dates back several hundreds years due to their similar appearance. Marcasite’s name was derived from “marqashith,” the Arabic word for Pyrite, after an old province in northeastern Persia. Marcasite jewelry (Pyrite) is a popular style that became fashionable during Queen Victoria’s reign. Marcasite jewelry normally uses Pyrite cut and polished in a circular outline (square cut gems are occasionally used) and pavé set between sterling silver beads to enhance their brilliance. They were originally used because they catch the light and glow like small Diamonds. Today, Marcasite jewelry is often fashioned into 925 sterling silver rings, earrings, pendants, brooches, necklaces and bracelets.
Legends and lore
Used by the ancient Greeks in pins, earrings and amulets, Pyrite was once polished by Native Americans and used as mirrors. Pyrite is also known as “healer’s gold” and is highly regarded by crystal healers as a gemstone of intellect and protection.
Just the facts
Pyrite is composed of iron sulfide. When found in its raw state, Pyrite crystals can be shaped as cubes, octahedrons and pyritohedrons (12 faces). Twinning causes “iron crosses” that look like interpenetrating cubes. Collectors particularly favor a flattened nodular variety called “Pyrite suns” or “Pyrite dollars.”
Pyrite is present in igneous rocks as an accessory mineral, in sedimentary rocks, especially black shale, and in metamorphic rocks, most notably in slates. Pyrite is sometimes found as a replacement mineral in fossils.
Prehnite
Jul 20th
PREHNITE
| PREHNITE | Also known as the Prediction Stone |
| Origins | Australia |
| Colors Found | Colorless, green, gray, white & yellow |
| Family | Silicate |
| Hardness | 6.00 – 6.50 |
| Refractive Index | 1.61 – 1.67 |
| Relative Density | 2.82 – 2.94 |
With its gorgeous greens and unique translucency, Prehnite is a wonderful rare exotic gem, which despite a suitable durability, has only recently gained popularity as a jewelry gemstone.
Named after the Dutch mineralogist and early governor of the “Cape of Good Hope” colony, Colonel Hendrik Von Prehn (1733-1785), who discovered it in the Cradock district of the eastern Cape province, South Africa in the early 18th century, Prehnite was the first mineral to be named after a person.
Legend and lore
Known as the “prediction stone” among spiritual healers, it is believed that Prehnite can enhance one’s dreaming and remembrance. Some crystal healers also believe that Prehnite’s color and unusual touch are ideal for stress release.
Just the facts
Prehnite’s bright, almost luminescent, swirling green colors (reminiscent of Jade), mesmerizing clarity and striking luster, make it an extremely attractive collector’s gem. In his book, “Gemstones of the World,” Walter Schumann describes Prehnite as a transparent to translucent gemstone, which accounts for its “cloudy” appearance. This is totally normal and like many gemstones, its distinctive appearance is key to its appeal. While its main colors are a range of pleasant greens that are often unique to Prehnite, yellow, gray, colorless or white varieties also exist. Prehnite has some interesting common names including “grape jade” (in China it is called “putao yu,” meaning grape jade, due to crystal formations that look like a bunch of grapes), “cape emerald” (for the location of its discovery and visual similarities to Emeralds) and “prediction stone” (see above).
Prehnite is usually found in cavities along fractures of basalt. The Australian deposits occur in scattered outcrops of Antrim Plateau Volcanics of early Cambrian age (about 570 million years old) and consist of massive basalt up to 197 feet thick. Although the primary Australian deposits cover thousands of square miles in the east Kimberley (Western Australia) and the adjoining Northern Territory, gem quality Prehnite is very scarce. With about 90% of the world’s reserves of this beautiful green gem, most of the Prehnite you’ll see on GemsTV hails from Australia.
Pezzottaite
Jul 20th
PEZZOTTAITE
| PEZZOTTAITE | Initially confused with Bixbite |
| Origins | Madagascar |
| Colors Found | Pink to raspberry |
| Family | Pezzottaite |
| Hardness | 7.50 – 8.00 |
| Refractive Index | 1.60 – 1.62 |
| Relative Density | 3.04 – 3.14 |
Displaying gorgeous deep raspberry pinks, Pezzottaite is a relatively new gemstone that has been subject to much confusion due to its similarities with the Red variety of Beryl, Bixbite.
Just the Facts
Pezzottaite was discovered in November 2002 at the Sakavalana mine located about 87 miles southwest of Antsirabe in southern Madagascar. The initial deposit yielded some extremely rare large crystals and it is now practically depleted although small amounts are now mined elsewhere in Madagascar. The Sakavalana pegmatite where Pezzottaite was discovered was mined by the French for Tourmaline during the 1940′s. The initial Pezzottaite deposit was discovered in a large crystal bearing cavity that also contained Tourmaline and Spodumene. Not surprisingly, Pezzottaite was initially mistakenly sold as Tourmaline in Madagascar.
Pezzottaite is mined from granitic pegmatites using hand tools, making its extraction slow and difficult.
Having a slightly different chemical composition to Bixbite (Be3Al2Si6O18), it was named Pezzottaite (Cs[Be2Li]Al2Si6O18) in September 2003 after Dr. Federico Pezzotta of the Museo Civico di Storia Naturale, Milan, Italy, in recognition of his contributions to the mineralogy of Madagascar.
Pezzottaite has a variety of trade names including Madagascan Raspberyl, Raspberyl and Raspberry Beryl. While Pezzottaite is closely related to the Beryl family and is visually similar, it is in fact a unique species, making its trade names somewhat misleading.
Like Emeralds, inclusions in Pezzottaite are common, especially in the larger carat weights. However, their rarity and novelty for gemstone collectors has always been the primary factor. Pezzottaite has all the attributes a gem needs – beauty, durability and rarity. Far scarcer than Ruby, these rare gems truly are a unique fashion statement.
Peridot
Jul 20th
PERIDOT
| PERIDOT | August’s birthstone |
| Origins | China, Kenya, Pakistan, South Africa, Tanzania & US |
| Colors Found | Green to yellowish green |
| Family | Olivine |
| Hardness | 6.50 – 7.00 |
| Refractive Index | 1.65 – 1.70 |
| Relative Density | 3.28 – 3.48 |
Shining with a bright green glow even at night, Peridot was called the “gem of the sun” by the ancient Egyptians and the “evening emerald” by Romans. Peridot was a favorite gemstone of Cleopatra and was historically mistaken for Emerald. The pronunciation of this popular gem is often confused and should be pronounced “Pair-ee-doh” as opposed to “Pair-ee-dot.”
Peridot’s name origin is uncertain, but several theories exist. Some sources speculate that it comes from the 13th century Middle English word “peridote,” meaning “bright spot” or “bright button,” an apt description for this gem given its brilliance. Other sources attribute it to the French “peritot,” meaning “unclear,” probably due to its silky appearance. While some sources suggest the word Peridot comes from the Greek “peridona,” indicating plentiful, this seems unlikely as this gem was scarce even in classical times. Given the ancient source of Peridot, the most likely candidate is the Arabic word “faridat,” which simply means “gem.”
Legends and lore
Popular in early Greek and Roman jewelry, Peridot has been coveted since 1500 BC when the Egyptians started mining it on Zeberget Island, later known as St. John’s Island, about 50 miles off the Egyptian coast in the Red Sea. Interestingly, “zabargad” is the Arabic word for Peridot.
Peridot mining was traditionally done at night when the gem’s natural glow made it easier to spot. The ancient Egyptians even believed that Peridot became invisible under the sun’s rays. They also believed that Peridot was colored by the golden glow of their sun god Ra, and was thus a powerful protector from harm.
Hawaiians believe Peridot is the goddess Pele’s tears, while it is mentioned in the Bible (using its old name Chrysolite, meaning “golden stone” in Greek) as being one of the “stones of fire” (Ezekiel 28:13-16) that were given to Moses and set in the breastplate of Aaron (Exodus 28:15-30). Peridot is also one of the twelve gemstones set in the foundations of the city walls of Jerusalem (Revelations 21:19) and associated with the Apostle Bartholomew.
While Cleopatra reportedly had a fine collection of “Emerald” jewelry, it was in reality predominantly Peridot.
The Ottoman Sultans gathered the largest collection of Peridot during their 600-year reign from 1300-1918, with an impressive array of both loose gemstones as well as earrings, rings and other jewelry.
Powdered Peridot has been used to cure asthma and a Peridot placed under the tongue of someone in the grip of a fever was believed to lessen their thirst. Legend has it that drinking from a Peridot goblet can increase the potency of medicines.
Pirates believed Peridot had the power to drive away evil spirits (and the night’s terrors), especially if set in gold. But as protection from evil spirits they believed it must be pierced, strung on donkey hair and worn on the left arm.
Possibly the most unusual Peridot is that which comes from meteorites called Pallasites, after their 1772 discoverer, a German scientist called Peter Simon Pallas. Some have even been faceted and set in jewelry, one of the few extraterrestrial gemstones known to man. In 2003 Peridot was discovered on Mars, making it the first gemstone to be discovered on another planet.
Just the facts
Peridot is the gem variety of Olivine and exhibits colors ranging from golden lime greens to rich grass greens. Traditionally, the most coveted color hues have been the rich grass greens. However, many Peridots with slight yellowish hues still exhibit attractive colors that are extremely popular. This once again demonstrates that your individual preference should always be the primary factor when collecting colored gemstones.
The elements that give gemstones their color are termed “idiochromatic” or “self colored” if they are an intrinsic ingredient of the gem (meaning the color results from a coloring element that is always incorporated into the crystal structure of the mineral) and “allochromatic” or “other colored” if they are trace elements (small amounts of an element that is not part of the normal crystal causes the color). In many gems, the major element in the chemical composition is colorless in a pure state such as Topaz or Sapphires. If these “allochromatic” gems occur in a variety of colors such as Ruby or Sapphire, then it is usually the result of trace elements. In the case of an “idiochromatic” gem like Peridot, the coloring element iron is actually part of the crystal, meaning the gem is always the same color (Peridot is always green).
Because of the way Peridot splits and bends light, it has an attractive velvety, silky appearance with a shining rich glow.
While the San Carlos Apache Reservation, Arizona has the world’s largest gem quality Peridot deposit, China has recently become a major producer. In 1994, an exciting new deposit was discovered in Pakistan, producing some of the finest Peridot ever seen. The new mine is located 15,000 feet above sea level in the Nanga Parbat region in the far west of the Himalayan Mountains in the Pakistani part of Kashmir.
Pearl
Jul 20th
PEARL
| PEARL | June’s birthstone |
| Origins | Australia, China, Indonesia, Japan, Philippines & Tahiti |
| Colors Found | Black, cream, gold, golden yellow, gray, orange, pink, silver & white |
| Family | Organics |
| Hardness | 2.50 – 4.50 |
| Refractive Index | 1.52 – 1.66 |
| Relative Density | 2.60 – 2.85 |
Pearls are one of the oldest known gems and for centuries were considered the most valuable. So valuable if fact, that the Roman General Vitellius allegedly financed an entire military campaign with just one of his mother’s Pearl earrings!
Thankfully, the days of island inhabitants free diving into azure oceans to harvest Pearls are more or less over. The lust for uncultured Pearls once decimated entire species of mollusks, relegating this gem of the sea to the elite few. Today, thanks to the innovations of Japanese noodle maker, Kokichi Mikimoto (the man who perfected Pearl farming and who convinced the world to accept them), these fragile ecosystems are now safe, with natural uncultured Pearls usually appearing only as antiques.
Legends and lore
The Romans were particularly enamored of this gem of the sea. Rome’s Pearl craze reached its zenith during the 1st century BC when upper class Roman women (the lower ranks were forbidden from wearing them) wore their Pearls to bed so they could be reminded of their wealth immediately upon awakening. They also sewed so many into their gowns that they actually walked on their Pearl-encrusted hems. The famously excessive Emperor Caligula, having made his beloved horse a Consul, decorated it with a Pearl necklace.
A lover of luxury, Julius Caesar, apart from his well known military accomplishments, was also an expert in Pearls and could reportedly accurately ascertain their value by simply weighing them in his hand.
Cleopatra flaunted her enormous wealth and power during a competition with Marc Anthony to see who could host the most lavish dinner party. She allegedly crushed a Pearl from one of her earrings into a glass of wine to demonstrate to Marc Anthony how she could drink the wealth of nations.
The first known source of Pearls was the Persian Gulf and the ancients of the area believed that Pearls were a symbol of the moon and had magical powers. Indeed, the oldest known Pearl jewelry is a necklace found in the sarcophagus of a Persian princess who died in 520 BC.
The earliest written record of their value is in the “Shu King,” a 23 BC Chinese book in which the scribe sniffs that a lesser king sent tribute of “strings of Pearls not quite round.” The Chinese also used Pearls in medicinal ways to cure eye ailments, heart trouble, indigestion, fever and bleeding. To this day Pearl powder is still popular in China as a skin whitener and cosmetic.
In India, Pearls were believed to give peace of mind and strengthen the body and soul.
In antiquity, it was thought that swallowing whole or powdered Pearls cured matters of the mind and heart, strengthened nerves and even improved virility.
The Koran states that a good Muslim, upon entering the Kingdom of Heaven, “is crowned with Pearls of incomparable luster, and is attended by beautiful maidens resembling hidden Pearls.”
While Queen Isabella had to hock her impressive collection of jewelry to fund Christopher Columbus’ expedition to discover the New World, the investment paid off as the discovery of Pearls in Central American waters added to the wealth of Spain. The flood of American Pearls onto the European market earned the newly discovered continent the nickname “land of Pearls.” Unfortunately, greed and lust for these gems of the sea resulted in the depletion of virtually all the American Pearl oyster populations by the 17th century.
During the Dark Ages, while fair maidens of nobility cherished delicate Pearl necklaces, gallant knights often wore Pearls onto the battlefield. They believed that the magic possessed by the lustrous gems would protect them from harm.
Pearls have long been considered ideal wedding gifts because they symbolize purity and innocence. In the Hindu religion, the presentation of an un-drilled Pearl and its piercing has formed part of the marriage ceremony. In the West, Pearls are the recommended gift for couples celebrating their 3rd and 30th wedding anniversaries.
Just the facts
The Pearl begins life as a foreign body (a grain of sand, coral or parasite), which makes its way into the shell of a marine or freshwater mollusk – usually oysters or clams. The mollusk’s defense mechanism starts to coat the intruder with layers of a slightly iridescent substance, “nacre” (from the Arabic word for shell “naqqarah”), which is the attractive outside of the Pearl. In its natural environment this will, after many years, form a Pearl that is of a significant size and quality.
Unlike natural Pearls, cultivated Pearls do not begin as accidental intruders. First cultivated by the Chinese as early as the 12th Century, the process starts with “nucleation.” A cultivated Pearl usually begins its life when a spherical bead or a piece of mantle tissue is placed inside the mollusk. After this seeding process, the Pearl farmers place the mollusks in wire-mesh baskets and suspend them in water. The aquaculturists carefully tend to the mollusks, overseeing their development for 18 months to 5 years. The depth of the nacre coating, an important factor in determining the color of Pearls, depends on how long the seeded Pearls are left in place before being harvested. Usually, only half of the Pearls will be marketable and less than 10% of these will be top-quality. While Pearls are classified as colored gems, there is a unique appeal about them. Unlike other gemstones that are born of earth and fire, Pearls are waterborn organic gems that originate from living animals. They are also unique in the sense that the principals of the 4 C’s (color, cut, clarity and carat weight) cannot be applied to them. The evaluation of Pearls requires a different set of criteria. A Pearl is appraised according to the display of color, luster, surface clarity, shape and size.
Pearl’s two colors
The body colors themselves can be white, cream, pink, rose, golden, silver, gray and black. As color preference is subjective, there is no such thing as a bad body color – it is purely a matter of choice. Apart from the obvious body color, there is actually a second color to consider when evaluating Pearls. This second color is actually a result of subtle iridescence. While not instantly obvious, especially when similar to the body color, this effect lends Pearls much of their allure. Typically, this iridescence is seen most strongly on the crest of a Pearl’s horizon. This beautiful, shimmering effect is known as the “orient” or overtone and denotes the depth of the nacre. Pearls with rich colorful orients are generally more coveted than those that have little or no orient.
Pearl luster
Pearls are bright, reflective gemstones. While Pearls with clean and even surfaces reflect more light than Pearls with blemished surfaces, please remember that as a natural creation, like inclusions in mineral gems, most Pearls do have blemishes.
Intelligent jewelers solve this problem by concealing blemishes near the drill holes.
Weight and size
As with other gemstones, value and size are intrinsically linked. The bigger the Pearl the more desirable it becomes. However, there is one important difference: Pearls are measured and expressed by their size, not weight (e.g., 8.5 millimeters).
Pearl locations
As with all things natural, Pearls can only grow in the right conditions. Different Pearl varieties from different locations command different prices. The best quality Pearls are found in the waters of French Polynesia, Japan and China. However, due to the different environments, mollusk species and farming techniques, all cultivated Pearls have their own distinctive qualities. The three main Pearl varieties on GemsTV are Freshwater Pearls, Tahitian Pearls and South Sea Pearls.
Freshwater Pearls
Although historically originating in Japan, China is now a major producer of Freshwater Pearls. Our Chinese Freshwater Pearls are farmed in the Fuchum, Wu and Ling Rivers of the Zhejiang province in southern China. China has successfully concentrated on Freshwater Pearls using not oysters but freshwater clams. The humble clam, while not as widely celebrated as its cousin the oyster, is equally capable of producing high-quality Pearls.
Tahitian Pearls
Tahitian Pearls are from French Polynesia and are named after the tropical island of Tahiti. Grown in the large black-lipped saltwater oyster (Pinctada Margaritifera), Tahitian Pearls are celebrated for their exceptional beauty.
Tahiti’s pure and tranquil waters are the ideal cultivation grounds for the dramatic Tahitian Pearl.
Tahitian legend says that Te Ufi (Pinctada Margaritifera) was given to man by Oro, the god of peace and fertility, who came to earth on a rainbow and offered the Pearl to the beautiful princess Bora Bora as a sign of eternal love.
First appearing in Europe in 1845, Napoleon III’s wife, Empress Eugenie was responsible for bringing Tahitian Pearls into fashion. After the fall of Napoleon, Empress Eugenie’s necklace was auctioned at Christies for $20,000. “Ezra” was the most famous natural Tahitian Pearl, the centerpiece of a necklace that was part of the Russian crown jewels.
Tahitian Black Pearls are prized and admired throughout the world. The first Pearl farms were established on the atoll of Hikueru and the island of Bora Bora in the early 1960′s. Exports began in 1972 and production was subsequently expanded on the islands of Marutea Sud and Mangareva. Today, Tahitian Black Pearls are cultivated in Pearl farms in a sprawling group of atolls and islands in French Polynesia, primarily the lagoons of the Tuamotu-Gambier Archipelago.
Tahitian Pearls generally range in size from 8 millimeters to 16 millimeters and consist of many thousands of layers of Aragonite (a variety of calcium carbonate). In contrast to many other Pearl varieties, Tahitian Pearls are cultured for 4 – 5 years and have a nacre thickness of 3 – 10 millimeters.
Tahitian Pearls display a shimmering orient or overtone that is green, blue, pink or violet in color. These orient colors are in striking contrast to their silver to black body color and are sometimes given specific names (e.g., deep green is called “fly wing,” “peacock” for the combination of green and pink, and “eggplant” is a dark toned body color combined with pink).
South Sea Pearls
Highly coveted, South Sea Pearls come from Australia, Indonesia and the Philippines. Cultured in varieties of Pinctada Maxima, this large, warm-water loving, gold and silver-lipped oyster produces Pearls of fabulous colors.
Opal
Jul 20th
OPAL
| OPAL | October’s birthstone |
| Origins | Australia, Brazil, Ethiopia, Mexico, Peru, South Africa, Tanzania & Zimbabwe |
| Colors Found | Various |
| Family | Opal |
| Hardness | 5.50 – 6.50 |
| Refractive Index | 1.37 – 1.52 |
| Relative Density | 1.98 – 2.50 |
One of the world’s most coveted gemstones, Opal’s name evolved from the Roman “opalus” which was derived from the Greek “opallios,” meaning “to see a change of color.” The Greek word was a modification of the ancient Indian Sanskrit name for Opal, “upala,” which meant “precious stone.” If one spoke in mixed tongues, then Opal would be opallios upala, “to see a change of color precious stone.”
While their body color covers a broad spectrum, Opals are most prized for their unique fiery play of color, reflecting and refracting light into flashes of multiple colors.
Legends and lore
Historically, Opal was considered a lucky charm that brought beauty, success and happiness to its wearer. The early Greeks believed Opals embodied the powers of foresight and prophecy.
The Romans also cherished Opals, considering them to be a symbol of hope and purity – an appropriate attribute for a gem with a rainbow locked within it!
The Arabs thought that Opals must have fallen from heaven in flashes of lightning. According to Arab tradition, it is believed that Opals prevent lightening strikes, shield its wearer from any undesirable elements in their day-to-day lives and give a cloak of invisibility to its wearer when desired.
Opal featured in literature with Shakespeare referring to it in “Twelfth Night” as “the queen of gems.”
The history books would have us believe that the European supplies of Opal came from India and the Middle East, but it is far more likely that they came from Hungarian mines.
Opal made the headlines in the 1890′s with the first samples of Australian Opal. The Hungarians declared that the new Australian variety was not the real thing, as Opals with such a fusion of fire and color had never been seen before. According to Koori (indigenous Australians) legend, the Creator came down to earth on a rainbow to bring a message of peace to all humans. At the spot where his feet touched the ground, the stones became alive and started sparkling in all the colors of the rainbow, giving birth to Australian Opals. Today, Opals are one of Australia’s national treasures and one of the world’s most prized gemstones.
Queen Victoria intervened in the near destruction of the 19th century Opal market when the writer Sir Walter Scott started a superstition that Opals were bad luck for people not born in October. In one of his novels, the heroine owned an Opal that burned fiery red when she was angry and turned ashen gray upon her death. Queen Victoria finally dispelled the curse by giving Opal jewelry as gifts at a royal wedding.
Scandinavian women still wear Opal hair bands to ward off the onset of gray hair, while some people believe that this gemstone has therapeutic properties that rejuvenate the inner spirit and invigorate the mind.
Just the facts
Opals possess flashes of rainbow colors that change with the angle of observation, called “play of color.” This effect is similar to the rainbow colors displayed on a soap bubble, only much more dramatic. This should not be confused with “opalescence,” which is the milky blue or pearly appearance of Opal caused by the reflection of light.
The physical structure of Opal is unique. Tiny precipitated spheres of silicon dioxide form a pyramid shaped grid interspersed with water. Tiny natural faults in this grid cause the characteristic play of color.
Opals are typically classified depending on the “potch” (the host rock, also called the “matrix”) on which the Opal is formed and their resulting transparency. For example, Black Opal has a black potch, Semi Black Opal has a potch darker than gray, but not quite black, White Opal has a white potch, Queensland Boulder Opal is Opal with an ironstone (boulder) potch and Jelly Opal (also know as Crystal Opal) is Opal with no potch whatsoever. Distinguished from Jelly Opal by its minimal play of color, Fire Opal is Jelly Opal that displays extraordinary fiery yellows, tangerines and reds. Matrix Opal (also know as “opal with matrix”) are any Opals where the potch or matrix is visible face up.
Opal actually exhibits many different colors including cherry colored specimens that rival Ruby, fiery-orange Opals that sparkle like Spessartite Garnet, tropical blue gems as intense as Chalcedony, and even gorgeous pinks and greens.
Today approximately 95% of the world’s Opal is sourced from a handful of prominent mining areas in Australia, namely Lightning Ridge, Coober Pedy, Andamooka and Mintabe.
Black Opal
Black Opal is principally found at Lightning Ridge in New South Wales, Australia. Known as the “King of Opals,” Lightning Ridge Black Opal has been coveted since it was discovered in 1902. Located 575 miles north of Sydney, Lightning Ridge (a free wheeling town of about 15,000 people) is the world’s major source of the finest Black Opal.
This magnificent gemstone is the most coveted form of Opal. Its dark background color sets the spectral colors ablaze much like a storm cloud behind a rainbow (the black background provides contrast and intensity to this Opal’s play of color). So prized is Black Opal that even wafer thin slices are made into doublets or triplets to give them enough strength and depth to set into gold rings and other jewelry items.
The Black Opal mining fields of Lightning Ridge and the majority of Australia’s Opal fields are located in a geological phenomenon called “The Great Australian Basin.” The basin was formed from sediments of a large inland sea that existed over 140 million years ago. Approximately 120 million years later, sandstones were deposited by waterways over the top of these sedimentary rocks. Eventually these younger rocks weathered, and their silica filtered down to cavities in the older host rock in the form of a gel. The silica gel hardened forming around a nucleus, creating the Opal’s characteristic regular spheres and voids. It’s the diffraction of light through these transparent spaces that produce Opal’s brilliant play of colors.
Mined directly from narrow seams in sedimentary rock, Opal mining involves hard digging with picks and shovels 20-59 feet underground. Buckets are then loaded and hauled to the surface using simple mechanical winches. The rough Opal (called “nobbies”) is initially separated by hand, prior to sieving. The remaining Opal nobbies are then taken to small converted cement mixers to wash off the excess dirt.
Unfortunately, all Australian Opal, but especially those from Lightning Ridge, are becoming increasingly scarce. The old fields at Lightning Ridge that produced high dome cabochons are virtually depleted, with only marginal areas presently being worked. Despite the fact that the government has opened many new prospective areas, to date there have been no significant new prospects found. Opal production at Lightning Ridge is half of what it was 10 years ago. The current supply problems are infuriating as international demand remains high. The present jewelry trends favoring color have seen an increase in Opal use among the world’s leading jewelry houses.
Boulder Opal
Boulder Opal is found sparsely distributed over a wide area of Australian ironstone or boulder country where the Opal (silica mix) fills veins, cracks, cavities and crevices in ironstone boulders. Opal bearing boulder is always cut to include the host brown ironstone. The GIA (Gemological Institute of America) classifies two types: gems with ironstone visible face up, called “opal with matrix” and gems with no visible inclusions, called “opal in matrix.” Boulder Opal is usually cut as “opal with matrix” to the contours of the Opal vein, creating a baroque wavy surface often freeform and irregular in shape, making each Boulder Opal unique. Located northwest of Lightning Ridge in western Queensland, the Queensland Boulder Opal Fields encompass a vast area centering on the town of Quilpie and extending as far north as Winton and south to Cunamulla. The last 12 months have seen slightly lower production levels, with any fine gems quickly snapped up.
Known for its lively flaming bright rich colors, this variety is in very high demand and extremely popular. Interest in Queensland Boulder Opal has increased markedly over the last 20 years as this unique type of Opal gains recognition from gem enthusiasts the world over.
Fire Opal
Fire Opals are appropriately named for their fiery cherries, sunburst yellows and deep tangerines. Unique and mysterious, Fire Opal is remarkable in that unlike many other Opals its play of color is minimal. Also known as Mexican Opal, Mexican Fire Opal, Tanzanian Fire Opal, Cherry Fire Opal, Ethiopian Fire Opal, Brazilian Fire Opal or Sun Opal, its legendary popularity instead comes from its breathtaking brilliance, opalescence, extraordinary fiery hues and stunning clarity. Fire Opals have been treasured in the Americas since the time of the Aztecs, where they were named “quetzalitzlipyollitli” or “gemstone of the bird of paradise.” Coveted by the Aztecs as symbols of intense love, such radiant gemstones were believed to have emerged from the primordial waters of creation. While Fire Opal is predominately sourced from Mexico (and occasionally Australia), this gem has recently been found in Tanzania, Ethiopia, Mali and now Brazil. While Opal has been mined in Brazil since approximately 1945, production has always been very limited, making it difficult to secure commercial quantities. Today, the Piaui State is increasingly garnering international acclaim for its Opals, with their quality favorably compared to Australian Opals, arguably the world’s finest. With the enforcement of new mining regulations, scarcity has increased, strengthening the appeal of this relatively new addition to the Opal family.
Green Opal
Discovered in the 1960′s, Green Opal is a green translucent Opal that resembles Chrysoprase or Jade and is commonly called Prase Opal or Chrysopal because of its resemblance to Chrysoprase. It is mined in the Arusha region of Tanzania (the same region as Tanzanite). While this gem does not display the play of color found in some Opals, its mint to apple green body color has made it very popular for jewelry. Trace amounts of nickel gives this Opal its unique color.
Jelly Opal
Jelly Opal (also known as Water Opal or Crystal Opal) is mined in Mexico and Australia. Offering an attractive blend of indistinct colors, it is transparent pure Opal with a gelatinous appearance and an occasionally pronounced opalescence (bluish sheen). The play of color is a subtle sheen dancing throughout the gem, rather than distinct color patches. When held out in direct light, Jelly Opal can display some of the most intense Opal colors. Very occasionally it is also found in Lightning Ridge, Australia, where it is essentially Black Opal without the black potch background. This is the type of Opal used in Opal inlay jewelry that has the base of the setting blackened (typically using black rhodium) before a precisely cut crystal Opal is set within.
Peruvian Opal
Hailing from the Andes and coveted by the ancient Incas, Peruvian Opal is extremely rare and exhibits an exquisite translucent coloring. While it typically comes in blue or pink colors, greens are also occasionally found.
Semi Black Opal
With a brighter transparency than Black Opal, Semi Black Opal has a body color darker than gray, but not quite black. Opacity is the key that divides black from semi black with Black Opal appearing more opaque than Semi Black Opal. Semi Black Opal was discovered at Andamooka in the 1930′s. Situated 398 miles north by road from Adelaide, South Australia, Andamooka remains a typical dusty “wild west” desert town. In the 1960′s when Andamooka was booming, an Opal setting (at the time worth hundreds of thousands of dollars) was presented to Queen Elizabeth II. While Andamooka Opals remain world renowned, only a small amount of Opal is now mined from Andamooka due to high logistical expenses related to its remoteness. Andamooka Opal is typically of an exceptionally high quality, but has become more difficult to source in the last few years. Andamooka is reportedly very quiet at present with less than 50 serious miners.
White Opal
White Opal is translucent with a creamy appearance that dominates the diffracted colors. While all the Australian Opal fields produce White Opal, the majority is mined in Coober Pedy.
Commenting that “there is in them a softer fire than the Ruby, there is the brilliant purple of the Amethyst, and the sea green of the Emerald – all shining together in incredible union,” Opal clearly impressed Pliny the Elder (23-79 AD), Roman historian and author of the “Historia Naturalis,” the world’s first encyclopedia.
Onyx
Jul 20th
ONYX
| ONYX | Also known as Black Magic |
| Origins | Brazil, India, Madagascar & Uruguay |
| Colors Found | Black & white |
| Family | Chalcedony Quartz |
| Hardness | 6.50 – 7.00 |
| Refractive Index | 1.53 – 1.54 |
| Relative Density | 2.60 – 2.64 |
Onyx is a Chalcedony Quartz with a fine texture and parallel bands of alternate colors. Commonly known as “black magic,” this gem’s name comes from the Greek word “onyx,” which means fingernail or claw.
Legend says that one day while Venus was sleeping Cupid cut her fingernails and left the clippings scattered on the ground. Because no part of a heavenly body can die, the gods turned them into a gem, which later became known as Onyx.
Legends and lore
Related to its mythological origin, Onyx is believed by some to encourage the growth of fingernails, hair and skin. In Greek times, almost all colors of Chalcedony Quartz from fingernail white to dark brown and black were called Onyx. Later, the Romans narrowed the term to refer to black and dark brown colors only. Today when we think of Onyx we often preface the word with “black” to distinguish it from other varieties of Onyx that come in white, reddish brown, green, brown and banded colors. Onyx which is reddish brown and white is known as Sardonyx.
With its consecutive layers of different colors, the ancient Romans believed Onyx to be an excellent cameo (a gem carved in positive relief) gemstone. Sardonyx was highly valued in Rome, especially for seals, because it was said never to stick to the wax. Roman General Publius Cornelius Scipio was known for wearing lots of Sardonyx.
Onyx is often associated with instincts and intuition. It is believed to give one the power to deeply analyze a situation before reacting to it, as well as better business acumen and management skills. Crystal healers also believe that it restores confidence in life and love, thereby increasing your happiness.
Just the facts
Quartz gemstones are commonly separated into two groups based on the size of their individual crystals. The macrocrystalline Quartz (large crystal) group includes many popular gemstones such as Amethyst, Ametrine and Citrine. Cryptocrystalline Quartz includes species whose individual crystals are too small to be easily distinguished. Apart from being a variety within the group, Chalcedony is also a catchall term to describe cryptocrystalline Quartz and includes many gems that have been coveted since antiquity.
Obsidian
Jul 20th
OBSIDIAN
| OBSIDIAN | Natural glass of volcanic origin |
| Origins | Mexico & US |
| Colors Found | Almost clear, black & very dark green |
| Family | Obsidian |
| Hardness | 5.00 – 5.50 |
| Refractive Index | 1.45 – 1.55 |
| Relative Density | 2.35 – 2.60 |
This gem is supposedly named after Obsidian, a Roman said to have first brought this gem to Rome from Lake Shalla, Ethiopia.
Legends and lore
Obsidian is regarded as one of the most important “teachers” of the New Age movement. Obsidian is said to sharpen both external and internal vision. For some crystal healers, it is the warrior of truth and shows the self where the ego is at, and what we must change in order to advance to the next step of evolutionary growth.
Just the facts
Obsidian is formed by the rapid cooling of viscous lava due to volcanic explosions. It is made of the same minerals as granite but cools so quickly that they do not have time to crystallize.
Obsidian has a glassy luster and is usually black or a very dark green, but it can also be found in an almost colorless form.
Obsidian may be fashioned into a razor sharp cutting edge and ancient civilizations used it for jewelry, mirrors, arrowheads, spearheads, scrapers and cutting tools, such as the sacrificial knives of the Aztecs. Because of this, Obsidian has been found in locations far from its original source. This might have confused a few gemologists but it has helped us understand more about the travels of our ancestors.
Today, transparent specimens are faceted, usually into step cuts, while less transparent pieces are fashioned into cabochons.
Especially prized in jewelry, Snowflake Obsidian is a striking black, lustrous opaque gem with white bold markings, formed by internal bubbles or crystals of potassium feldspar, much like beautiful patterns of snowflakes on a black background.
Morganite
Jul 20th
MORGANITE
| MORGANITE | Pink variety of Beryl |
| Origins | Afghanistan, Brazil, Madagascar, Namibia, Russia & US |
| Colors Found | Pink |
| Family | Beryl |
| Hardness | 7.50 – 8.00 |
| Refractive Index | 1.56 – 1.60 |
| Relative Density | 2.66 – 2.87 |
Morganite, or Pink Beryl as it was initially described, was discovered in Madagascar in 1911. It was Tiffany’s celebrated gemologist, George Frederick Kunz who renamed this unique gemstone in homage to the New York banker and his benefactor, John Pierpont Morgan.
Legends and lore
While Morganite has had little time to generate myths and legends, aside from their obvious physical beauty, all pink gemstones are believed by some to possess potent metaphysical properties connected with love and compassion.
Just the facts
Morganite, a member of the Beryl family and sister gem to Aquamarine and Emerald, is colored by trace amounts of manganese that find their way into the Beryl crystal structure. Morganite is found as flat, tabular crystals that resemble Rose Quartz, but they are easily differentiated by their luster and brilliance.
When Mother Nature created Morganite she made the ideal gemstone to complement all complexions. Coming in pinks from subtle lavenders to hot fuchsias and even pastel pink apricot blends (as typified by Medina Morganite and Magnolia Morganite), Morganite exudes charm and tenderness. Putting a unique twist on fashionable pink, Morganite provides the perfect antidote to the stress of modern life.
Its durability, luster, clarity, brilliance and myriad of beautiful pink hues, makes Morganite immensely suitable as a jewelry gemstone, appropriate for everyday wear. The only factor impeding Morganite’s popularity is its scarcity.
Moonstone
Jul 20th
MOONSTONE
| MOONSTONE | June’s birthstone |
| Origins | Brazil, India, Madagascar, Sri Lanka & Tanzania |
| Colors Found | Colorless to brown, green, gray, pink, rainbow & yellow |
| Family | Feldspar |
| Hardness | 6.00 – 6.50 |
| Refractive Index | 1.51 – 1.53 |
| Relative Density | 2.56 – 2.59 |
Popular with the Romans, who thought it was formed out of moonlight, and in India, where it is considered a sacred zodiac gem, Moonstone is one of the most coveted varieties of Feldspar. Other names for Moonstone include Adularia (a variety found in the European Alps near the Adula Group) and Selenite (from the Greek “selene,” meaning moon).
Legend and lore
Laced with superstitions, suspicion, humor and romance, the earliest known traditions describe Moonstone as having been set in the forehead of a four-handed Indian god who represented the moon. Partly from its unique color, partly from a superstition that represented it as feeling the influence of the deity whom it adorned, it first gained the name by which it continues to be known today in ancient India.
The gem’s modern western roots allegedly originate from the German word “mondstein,” (Moonstone) that was used to describe a lustrous variety of Feldspar in the late 18th century.
This gem has always been revered because of its lunar attraction. In antiquity, Moonstone was believed to be the solidified rays of the moon and the glimmering light within was thought to be the light of the good spirit that lived within the gem. In ancient Rome, Moonstones were thought to change their appearance depending on the waning phases of the moon. They also thought that a picture of Diana, the goddess of the moon, could be seen in every Moonstone.
In the Middle Ages, people thought that if you fell into a deep sleep after gazing into a Moonstone it would tell you the future. It has always been considered a feminine or “Goddess” gem. One Asian legend points out that where there is a moon there is no rain and so the name Moonstone means “no tears.”
Moonstone is a highly prized gift for lovers as it is believed to arouse tender passion. According to another legend, a Moonstone placed in the mouth while the moon is full gives lovers the power to read their futures together. In antiquity, men also used Moonstone to predict the future by placing them in their mouths.
A symbol of the third eye, Moonstone was once believed to balance yin/yang, protect against epilepsy and sun stroke, cure headaches and nose bleeds, and ensure a high yield in crops. Today, crystal healers believe that it can help men open their feminine emotional aspects. In some cultures, it is also believed to accentuate the wearer’s nature, whether positive or negative.
Just the facts
Moonstone is a potassium-rich orthoclase member of the Feldspar group of minerals and is closely related to Sunstone and Labradorite. The name Feldspar comes from the German “feldt spat,” meaning “field stone.” This is because when Feldspar weathers, it releases large amounts of plant nutrients, such as potassium, which enrich the soil.
Moonstone shows a blue-whitish opalescence called “adularescence” (sometimes described as a “billowy” light or shimmer) that glides over the surface of the gem. Interference phenomena, due to the intergrowth of two different types of Feldspar with different refractive indexes, from the gem’s layered structure are the cause of this effect. Moonstones are often cut as cabochons to maximize this effect.
Traditionally, Moonstone has a silver to blue sheen, a transparent to translucent to opaque clarity and a colorless body color. Sri Lankan Rainbow Moonstone possesses all these qualities and as it is quite rare and becoming rarer, it is definitely a “must have” for any jewelry collection. Sri Lankan Rainbow Moonstone is laboriously chipped directly from a host deposit in Meetiyaguda, Sri Lanka. Interestingly, Sri Lankan Rainbow Moonstone typically displays such a stunning transparent clarity (not usually associated with this gemstone), intense bright blue shimmer and dazzling iridescence (the rainbow-like color effect seen in some gems caused by cracks or structural layers breaking up light into spectral colors) that it can be cut as a faceted gemstone. This is truly unique and further accentuates the desirability of this highly collectible exotic gemstone.
Tanzanian Moonstone is a relatively new variety sourced from the Arusha region of Tanzania (the same region as Tanzanite).
Malachite
Jul 20th
MALACHITE
| MALACHITE | Also know as the Peacock Stone |
| Origins | Namibia, Tanzania & Zambia |
| Colors Found | Banded light & dark green |
| Family | Malachite |
| Hardness | 3.50 – 4.00 |
| Refractive Index | 1.65 – 1.90 |
| Relative Density | 3.25 – 4.10 |
Malachite is named after the Greek word “moloche,” meaning mallow, due to its similarity in color to mallow leaves.
A secondary copper mineral, Malachite is a popular gem that has light and dark vivid green bands. Many beautiful specimens of Malachite contain special combinations with other minerals, such as Azurite, Cuprite or Chrysocolla.
Legends and lore
Malachite was admired by ancient Greek followers of the goddess Venus and thought to possess great powers.
In Rome it was called the “peacock stone” and dedicated to the goddess Juno, who protects against lightning and other perils of nature. Continuing these ancient traditions, to this day some Italians wear Malachite as protection against the evil eye.
Popular with the ancient Egyptians, according to legend, their hippo goddess Toeris (also associated with Hathor) wore a necklace of many beads including Malachite.
In antiquity, Malachite was worn to detect impending danger, reportedlly breaking into pieces when danger was near. Hence, Malachite was often regarded as the guardian gem of travelers.
For modern crystal healers Malachite’s powers include protection, power, peace, hope, love, and success in business.
Just the facts
Malachite’s banded, light and dark green designs are unique and give it a visual appearance unlike any other gem. The light and dark green bands are so distinctive that it is arguably one of the most easily recognizable gemstones.
Its ability to mix with other minerals has lead to Malachite being unearthed in a wide array of attractive colors and patterns. These unique combinations create some truly intriguing gemstones.
Labradorite
Jul 20th
LABRADORITE
| LABRADORITE | Labradorescence |
| Origins | China, India & Madagascar |
| Colors Found | Colorless, orange, red, smoke gray & yellow |
| Family | Feldspar |
| Hardness | 6.00 – 6.50 |
| Refractive Index | 1.55 – 1.57 |
| Relative Density | 2.65 – 2.75 |
Labradorite is named after the Labrador Peninsula in Canada where it was discovered. Displaying brilliant pastels and deep golden colors, it even includes varieties colloquially known as “black rainbow,” which feature a spellbinding play of color. Labradorite is a stunning gemstone perfect for wardrobes in all seasons.
Legends and lore
Calling it “firestone” because of its captivating play of color, the Native Americans of Labrador attributed mystical qualities to Labradorite, using the powdered gem as a magical potion to cure their ailments.
Interestingly, some modern mystics believe that Labradorite is a gem that assists the practice of magic, unleashes the power of the imagination and helps to overcome personal limitations.
Just the facts
Labradorite is a sodium-rich variety of plagioclase Feldspar. While transparent Labradorite is relatively free from inclusions and appears red, orange, yellow or colorless, the smoke gray varieties that show a rainbow-like color effect or “iridescence” are most frequently used in jewelry.
Valued for its lustrous metallic reflections (called schiller) that are said to resemble a butterfly’s wing, this iridescence is aptly called “labradorescence” by gemologists and appears as stunning rainbow colored reflections when light strikes the gem in a particular direction. Mainly caused by the interference of light from lattice distortions, cracks or structural layers breaking up light into spectral colors, this effect often appears in violet, blue, green, yellow, gold and even reddish orange tints. Spectrolite, an extremely rare variety found previously only in Finland, but now also mined in India, can even display the complete color spectrum.
When appreciating the play of color in Labradorite, observe the strength and intensity of the labradorescence when the gemstone is viewed from different angles. This may result in different colors being visible or even a range of colors all visible at the same time.
Kyanite
Jul 20th
KYANITE
| KYANITE | Perfect cleavage, varying hardness |
| Origins | Nepal & Tibet |
| Colors Found | Blue |
| Family | Kyanite |
| Hardness | 4.00 – 7.00 |
| Refractive Index | 1.71 – 1.73 |
| Relative Density | 3.53 – 3.70 |
Also called Disthene, the name Kyanite is derived from the Greek “kyanos,” meaning blue. The most popular varieties display intensely beautiful colors reminiscent of top Ceylon and Kashmir Sapphires. Although the name Kyanite has been used since 1789, Kyanite was sold in Europe as Sapphire until the turn of the 20th century.
Legends and lore
The powerful blue hues of Kyanite have long been thought to inspire calmness, composure, serenity, loyalty and respect.
Kyanite is used by alternative healers as a tool for meditation and relaxation. These healers use Kyanite to open the third eye chakra to enhance creativity, broaden perception and to reach a better understanding of others. Kyanite is also said to foster tranquility and believed to have a positive effect on dreams, visualization and foresightedness.
Just the facts
Kyanite has perfect cleavage in one direction, a unique characteristic among gemstones. This combined with its varying hardness (Kyanite is a rare polymorph, displaying two hardnesses within one gem), makes Kyanite a challenging gem to facet. Understandably, the cutting of Kyanite is an extremely important quality consideration.
Occurring in a wide variety of locations around the world, the best quality Kyanite hails from a deposit discovered in 1995 in the Kali Gandaki region of west central Nepal and Tibet. Tibetan Kyanite is arguably the best ever found, displaying rich cobalt blues, evocative of superb Sapphires.
Kunzite
Jul 20th
KUNZITE
| KUNZITE | Pleochroism |
| Origins | Afghanistan, Brazil, Madagascar, Nigeria & Pakistan |
| Colors Found | Shades of pink & yellow |
| Family | Spodumene |
| Hardness | 6.00 – 7.00 |
| Refractive Index | 1.66 – 1.68 |
| Relative Density | 3.15 – 3.21 |
Discovered in California in 1902 (some sources say around 1877), Kunzite was named after Tiffany’s legendary gemologist and famous gemstone author, George Frederick Kunz.
Kunz described this durable pink gemstone as having two distinct properties: “phosphorescence” where Kunzite, in this aspect similar to Diamonds, is observed to glow in a darkened room after it has been exposed to the sun’s ultraviolet rays and “pleochroism,” showing different colors when viewed from different directions. These phenomena are best seen in larger sized gems set into jewelry like pendants, drop and chandelier earrings, and rings with open prong or bar settings that let light flow freely through them, accentuating Kunzite’s fire to full effect.
Kunzite radiates pure Parisian chic, revealing delicate pastel pinks, frosty lilacs, cool lavenders, hot fuchsias and rich orchids under the warm glow of incandescent light (candlelight). Its subtle coloring perfectly compliments “décolleté” eveningwear and soft candlelight, hence its colloquial name “the evening gemstone.”
Legends and lore
Aside from their obvious physical beauty, pink gemstones possess potent metaphysical properties. Alternative healers use a multitude of pink gems in conjunction with the “heart chakra.” The 4th of 7 energy points that run the course of the human body, the heart chakra is believed to carry the emotional sensibilities of love and compassion. Some believe that when the 4th chakra is blocked we experience emotions such as anxiety, fear, anger and frustration. Crystal healers use the properties of pink gems like Pink Tourmaline and Kunzite to free the heart chakra from this negative energy. This alternative approach of enhancing the “power of pink” is a viewpoint shared and supported by traditional methods of medicine and psychology: “The color Pink causes the brain to send signals that reduce the secretion of adrenalin, reducing the heart rate and consequently dissipating states of extreme excitement such as anger,” Science Digest, 1980.
Just the facts
The lithium in Kunzite’s chemical composition, lithium aluminum silicate, along with trace amounts of manganese, gives it the wonderful pink colors that complement both autumn and spring wardrobes. As a member of the Spodumene family, Kunzite is closely related to Hiddenite, a green variety of Spodumene. Hiddenite is an attractive gem, but is extremely rare and for the most part is only known by collectors. Hiddenite was discovered in 1800 in Hiddenite, a city in Alexander County, North Carolina, US. Both the city and the gem were named after William Earl Hidden, a mineralogist and mining director from Newark, New Jersey who was mining in the area. For many years, Hiddenite was limited to North Carolina, but new deposits were recently discovered in Madagascar and Brazil. Green Spodumene must contain trace amounts of chromium to be called Hiddenite.
Spodumene’s color is due to trace elements of iron (producing yellow to green), chromium (producing medium to deep green) or manganese (producing pink to lilac), all substituting for aluminum in the crystal structure. The name Spodumene (named by B.J. D’Andrada Sylva in 1800) was derived from the Greek “Spodumenos,” meaning “burnt to ashes” in reference to some Spodumenes’ light gray color.
While Kunzite is usually thought of as a pink to lilac gemstone, Yellow Kunzite, Mint Kunzite and White Kunzite are trade names used to describe yellow, light green and colorless Spodumene. Displaying delicate pastel lemon meringues, mint greens and ice whites, these color varieties possess all the attributes of Kunzite, albeit in other colors, providing Kunzite lovers with delightful alternatives. Kunzite is strongly pleochroic, meaning there is a color intensity variation and change when the crystal is viewed from different directions. A gem cutter must take great care to orient the gem in a position that accentuates its best color. The top and bottom of the crystal reveal the deepest colors and our experienced gem cutters always take this into consideration when faceting Kunzite for GemsTV.
Kornerupine
Jul 20th
KORNERUPINE
| KORNERUPINE | Pleochroism |
| Origins | Madagascar, Sri Lanka & Tanzania |
| Colors Found | Brown, green & orange |
| Family | Kornerupine |
| Hardness | 6.50 – 7.00 |
| Refractive Index | 1.66 – 1.70 |
| Relative Density | 3.27 – 3.45 |
Kornerupine (also known as Prismatine) was discovered in Fiskernaes, Greenland in 1884 and was named after the Danish geologist and explorer Andreas N. Kornerup (1857-1881). It is a rare gemstone well known for its pleochroism (different colors seen from different viewing angles) and its green color, which can be as intense as Emerald.
Legends and lore
Among crystal healers, Kornerupine is considered a gemstone for teaching and communication. Kornerupine is also said to help stabilize the emotional swings of manic-depressives and assist in seeing through the false agreements in one’s current reality.
Just the facts
A metamorphic mineral, Kornerupine is a complex magnesium aluminum borosilicate whose crystals are often found in alluvial deposits collected behind rocks or in the bends of rivers. Kornerupine is often deposited with other gems including Sapphire, Chrysoberyl, Ruby, Topaz, Garnet, Zircon, Diopside, Andalusite, Spinel and Iolite.
While Kornerupine has a similar, but slightly higher index of refraction than Emeralds, as well as their characteristic inclusions, the two gems are easily distinguished by Kornerupine’s pleochroism. Depending on the angle from which Kornerupine is viewed, its colors can range from brown, colorless, green, greenish-yellow, yellow, pink or lavender. However, wherever possible Kornerupine is faceted on the green axis as this coloration is its rarest and most coveted color.
Kornerupine also occasionally exhibits chatoyancy or the cat’s eye effect. When polished as cabochons Kornerupine can display a reflection effect that appears as a single bright band of light across its surface. This effect is caused by inclusions of fine, slender parallel fibers in the gem.
While Kornerupine is a rare gem that used to be limited to collections, it is now becoming increasingly popular in jewelry due to its suitability for everyday wear.
Jasper
Jul 20th
JASPER
| JASPER | Mentioned in the Bible |
| Origins | India, Madagascar & Mexico |
| Colors Found | Brown, green, grayish white, pink, red, shades of bluish purple & yellow |
| Family | Chalcedony Quartz |
| Hardness | 6.50 – 7.00 |
| Refractive Index | 1.54 |
| Relative Density | 2.58 – 2.91 |
Jasper is an opaque and fine grained variety of Chalcedony Quartz. It is typically found in red, yellow, brown or green colors and generally has spots. Its name comes from the Latin word for Jasper “iaspis,” meaning “spotted stone,” which probably also referred to the other types of Chalcedony Quartz.
Jasper is normally cut as cabochons and has traditionally been used as a gemstone for jewelry such as brooches, earrings, necklaces, pendants, intaglios (a gem carved in negative relief) and cameos (a gem carved in positive relief).
Legends and lore
Jasper was a favorite amulet gem in ancient times and is referenced in Greek, Hebrew, Assyrian and Latin literature. For example, Jasper is one of “the stones of fire” (Ezekiel 28:13-16) that were given to Moses at the mountain of God and said to possess the power to summon angels. Moses then decreed them mounted into a sacred breastplate for his brother, the high priest Aaron (Exodus 28:15-30). In the New Testament (Revelations 21:19), Jasper is one of the twelve gemstones set in the foundations of the city walls of Jerusalem. As compiled by Andreas, Bishop of Caesurae, one of the earliest writers to tie the Apostles with the symbolism of the twelve gems of Jerusalem, Jasper was denoted for the Apostle St. Peter.
In some Native American cultures, Jasper is considered to be the symbolic blood of the earth, and was thus thought to be one of the best gems for connecting with the deep, stabilizing energies of the earth.
According to crystal healers, Jasper is an intensely protective gem, acting to stabilize the aura and rid it of dysfunctional energy thereby facilitating relaxation, contentment and compassion.
Just the facts
Quartz gemstones are commonly separated into two groups based on the size of their individual crystals. The macrocrystalline Quartz (large crystal) group includes many popular gemstones such as Amethyst, Ametrine and Citrine. Cryptocrystalline Quartz includes species whose individual crystals are too small to be easily distinguished. Apart from being a variety within the group, Chalcedony is also a catchall term to describe cryptocrystalline Quartz and includes Jasper as well as many other gems that have been coveted since antiquity.
Jade
Jul 20th
JADE
| JADE | One of the toughest gems |
| Origins | China |
| Colors Found | Blue, brown, cream, green, gray, lavender, red, white & yellow |
| Family | Jade |
| Hardness | 6.00 – 6.50 |
| Refractive Index | 1.60 – 1.63 |
| Relative Density | 2.90 – 3.03 |
For centuries, Nephrite Jade and the other Jade variety Jadeite were considered one and the same. It was not until 1863 in France that they were identified as different minerals with a similar appearance and properties.
The name Jade was first used around the time of the Spanish conquest of Central and South America and is from the Spanish “piedra de ijada,” meaning hip stone, as it was thought to cure kidney stones and other kidney ailments.
While Jade was known as the “stone of heaven” in ancient China, the Chinese word for Jade, Yu, is not generally used. Jade was excavated from the Kunlun Mountains of northwest China, from 5000 BC, and even today China remains an important source for this gemstone.
Legends and lore
In Russia, it has been mined and crafted since 3000 BC. Tsar Alexander III’s sarcophagus was carved from Jade. For about 3,000 years Jade has been highly prized by the Native Americans of British Columbia, Canada who called it “greenstone” and for centuries the New Zealand Maori have made beautiful Nephrite carvings.
Just the facts
Nephrite is composed of silica and magnesia and its color is determined by the amount of iron present in the mineral. A lesser iron content produces lighter colors such as white, cream, yellow, gray, green, blue, red, brown and lavender. A greater iron content produces the darker colored Nephrite, such as darker gray and darker green.
Nephrite has the highest tensile strength (toughness as opposed to hardness) of all natural gemstones and even has a tensile strength greater than some steel. It is so strong that it cannot be chiseled. It must be ground using sharp abrasives. Interestingly, less than 0.05% of Nephrite extracted is of gem quality. Nephrite is typically not dyed as it is less likely to take up dye or stains than Jadeite. Older pieces benefit from polishing to retain their luster.
Iolite
Jul 20th
IOLITE
| IOLITE | Also known as Water Sapphire |
| Origins | India, Madagascar & Sri Lanka |
| Colors Found | Violet blue, light blue or yellow gray |
| Family | Cordierite |
| Hardness | 7.00 – 7.50 |
| Refractive Index | 1.54 – 1.58 |
| Relative Density | 2.58 – 2.66 |
The name Iolite comes from the Greek word “ios,” which means violet. Iolite is a transparent, violet blue, light blue or yellow gray gemstone. A pleochroic gem (different colors are displayed when the gemstone is viewed from different angles), Iolite will show many colors in a single piece.
Legends and lore
According to ancient Scandinavian sagas, Norse navigators used thin pieces of Iolite (their magical “sunstone”) as the world’s first polarizing filter. Looking through an Iolite lens, they could determine the position of the sun on overcast days and navigate their boats safely. Hence Iolite is also known as the “Viking’s compass” or “Viking’s stone.” The story of the “Viking compass” triggered the curiosity of a 10 year-old boy who just happened to be the son of the Chief Navigator of the Scandinavian Airline System, Jorgen Jensen. The “sunstone” described in Norse lore sounded similar to the twilight compass used by his father at higher latitudes where a magnetic compass is unreliable. His father’s twilight compass was equipped with a polarizing filter that enables a navigator to locate the sun, even when it is behind the clouds, by light polarized by the atmosphere.
Intrigued by his son’s observation, Jensen passed it onto Danish archaeologist Thorkild Ramskau, who immediately recognized its scientific implications. Collecting minerals found in Scandinavia whose molecules are aligned similarly to the crystals in a polarizing filter, Ramskau put Iolite (the gem variety of the mineral Cordierite) to the test. Accompanying navigator Jorgen Jensen on a flight to Greenland, Ramskau kept track of the sun with a piece of Iolite while Jensen used the twilight compass. Incredibly, his observations were accurate to within 2.5 degrees of the sun’s true position!
Known as the gemstone of clear vision, when worn as an amulet, Iolite was believed to have the power to guide lost sailors to the brilliance of the sun, allowing them to safely find their way home.
Just the facts
Iolite is a popular and interesting gemstone. It has a pretty violet blue color that is unlike other gemstones although it has been compared to light blue Sapphires. It is for this reason that it is sometimes known as “water sapphire.”
While an Iolite necklace or Iolite earrings are probably the best ways to showcase this gem’s unique color, Iolite rings are also desirable, as it is a durable gem well suited to everyday wear.
Pleochroism (different colors displayed when viewed from different angles) is very pronounced in Iolite and is seen as three different color shades in the same gem. When viewing Iolite, the colors violet blue, yellow gray and a light blue can be seen. When correctly faceted, Iolite will show its best violet blue color through the top or table of the gem, but when viewed from another angle the gem may display other colors.
Heliodor
Jul 20th
HELIODOR
| HELIODOR | Perfect, prismatic hexagon crystals |
| Origins | Brazil, Madagascar, Namibia, Nigeria & Russia |
| Colors Found | Yellowish green |
| Family | Beryl |
| Hardness | 7.50 – 8.00 |
| Refractive Index | 1.56 – 1.60 |
| Relative Density | 2.66 – 2.87 |
Heliodor was first discovered in Rossing, Erongo in western Namibia in 1910 and was named from the Greek “helios” and “doron,” meaning “gift from the sun.”
Displaying characteristic yellowish greens (similar to olive oil), Heliodor is a variety of Beryl, the “mother of gemstones.” Interestingly, as an allochromatic gem, pure Beryl is colorless, with traces of different elements being responsible for Beryl’s great color range.
Legends and lore
Among crystal healers, Heliodor has traditionally been used as a charm to promote compassion, sincerity and sympathy. Heliodor is also believed by some to enhance one’s intuition and to improve one’s communicative abilities.
Just the facts
Heliodor’s main characteristic is its color, which is produced when iron replaces some of the aluminum in the crystal structure. The color ranges depending on the relative concentrations and location of iron within the Beryl crystal structure. However, the shade may vary and it is often difficult to establish a dividing line between Heliodor, Golden Beryl and Yellow Beryl. Originally, Golden Beryl found in Namibia was called Heliodor, but today the name is used to describe the yellowish green varieties of Beryl, with the golden colors called Golden Beryl and the yellow colors called Yellow Beryl. However, please be aware that these demarcations are still confused by some sources.
Not surprisingly, Heliodor was discovered in a pegmatite that also produced Aquamarine, a Beryl also colored by iron. Like Aquamarine, the more intense colors frequently have more inclusions. Heliodor occurs primarily in granite pegmatites and to a lesser extent in granite cavities. Because of Heliodor’s relatively robust hardness and specific gravity, it is sometimes found in alluvial deposits.
Heliodor is famous for its perfect, six-sided prismatic hexagonal crystals that usually occur individually. These are often enormous and some 26-foot, well crystallized examples are known to have existed. Understandably, only very small amounts of these enormous crystals are of a sufficient quality to be used in jewelry.
Heliodor can be faceted into various gem cuts, and some gems display chatoyancy (cat’s eye effect) when cut and polished into cabochons. When perfectly transparent, six-sided crystals are discovered, they are sometimes set uncut in necklaces and pendants.
While the best Heliodor traditionally hails from Namibia, beautiful specimens are also found in Minas Gerais, Brazil and the Ural Mountains, Russia. While Heliodor’s durability and summery colors makes it well suited to jewelry, it is extremely difficult to find enough Heliodor to craft lines of jewelry, particularly with respect to clean examples displaying intense colors and a high luster (good cutting and polishing). It frequently simply isn’t available and despite its beauty, rarely makes an appearance in jewelry.
Garnet
Jul 20th
GARNET
| GARNET | January’s birthstone |
| Origins | India, Kenya, Madagascar, Mali, Mozambique, Namibia, Nigeria, Russia, Sri Lanka & Tanzania |
| Colors Found | Various |
| Family | Garnet |
| Hardness | 6.5 – 7.5 |
| Refractive Index | 1.72 – 1.94 |
| Relative Density | 3.62 – 4.30 |
Garnet has a history spanning more than 5,000 years. Deriving its name from the Latin word for seed, “granatus,” Garnet was so named because of its similar color to pomegranate seeds.
From the svelte necklines of Abyssinian princesses to the powdered décolletage of Marie Antoinette, the captivating mystique of Garnets has made them a timeless symbol of feminine beauty. The imaginative lure of this “queen of gems” intoxicates the senses.
Understanding Garnets
Garnets are a group of minerals all having essentially the same crystal structure but varying in chemical composition, physical properties and colors. Unlike many other gemstones, color in Garnet does not come from chemical impurities – when pure, a Garnet still has color. Garnets very rarely occur in nature with their compositions precisely matching their “pure ideal.” A natural Garnet’s composition typically falls somewhere in between the pure ideals of other Garnet members.
| Group | Species | Pure Types | Mixed Types |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pyralspites | Almandine | Almandine | Rhodolite (Pyrope & Almandine) |
| Pyrope | Pyrope | Mozambique (Pyrope & Almandine) | |
| Spessartite | Spessartite | Malaia (Mandarin & (Intermediate composition range between Spessartite & Pyrope) | |
| Umbalite (Pyrope & Almandine with small traces of Spessartite) | |||
| Ugrandites | Andradite | Demantoid | Mali (Andradite & Grossular) |
| Grossular | Grossular, Tsavorite, Merelani Mint & Hessonite | ||
| Uvarovite |
Legends and lore
Garnet’s associated symbolism with pomegranates has been longstanding. Interestingly, several ancient pieces of jewelry have been unearthed that are studded with tiny red Garnets in cluster-like patterns reminiscent of pomegranates. The pomegranate is associated with eternity in Greek mythology and mentioned specifically in the legend of Hades’ abduction of Persephone.
Garnet has long been associated with fire and was thought to possess the ability to illuminate the sky at night. Today, Garnets remain a symbol of faith, truth and light. This story from Grimm’s fairytales nicely presents this association – “Once upon a time an elderly lady came upon an injured bird. Taking the bird home with her, she nursed it back to health until one day it flew away. Although the lady thought she’d never see it again, it returned to her house with a Garnet that she put by her bedside. To her surprise, she awoke every night to see it shining as bright as a torch, illuminating the bird’s gratitude for her kindness.”
According to Jewish legends, during the great flood a radiant Garnet guided the way for Noah, ultimately leading his ark to salvation. For Muslims they are believed to illuminate the fourth heaven.
Garnet jewelry was buried with Norsemen to light their passage to Valhalla and was also used to light the palace of Abyssinia’s monarch.
The Crusaders set Garnets into their armor, believing their power would lead them to safety. During the Middle Ages Garnet was also believed to draw out negativity, ward off harm and increase well-being, chivalry, loyalty and honesty.
To receive a Garnet as a gift in the Middle Ages was considered good luck, however, if ever stolen, bad luck to the thief! It was also believed that a Garnet’s loss of luster was a sign of impending doom.
Although Garnet was the “fashion gem” of the 18th and 19th centuries, the inadequacy of available tests often resulted in it being confused with dark Ruby. Jewelry set with Garnets from Czechoslovakia was particularly admired, and although today the Garnets are mined elsewhere, Bohemian style Garnet jewelry has retained its popularity.
In 1912 Garnets were made the official birthstone for January by the American National Association of Jewelers. It is also the gemstone for Aquarians and a traditional gift for 2nd and 6th wedding anniversaries.
Just the facts
Even though there are many types of Garnets (including trade and historic names there are currently 38 known Garnet names), appearing in as many colors, when you say “Garnet” most people automatically think of small dark red gemstones. In fact, Garnets offer enough variety for every taste and can consequently keep up with the fast pace of changes in fashion.
Champagne Garnet
A distinctive and very attractive color variety of Malaia Garnet, Champagne Garnet is in fact a mixture of Pyrope and Spessartite Garnet and is mined in Tanzania’s Umba Valley.
Color Change Garnet
Color Change Garnets are one of the rarest, most interesting and phenomenal of all gemstones. An extremely rare variety of Malaia Garnet, Color Change Garnet is in fact a mixture of Pyrope and Spessartite Garnet. Comparatively, it is slightly rarer than Alexandrite and it is a constant struggle to get enough quantity to craft lines of jewelry. As our selection is usually relatively limited, it is one of those gems that discerning customers should purchase when they see it, as it simply isn’t always available.
While Color Change Garnets have been reported since the early 1970′s, it was only noted as a curiosity by a very small number of gemologists and gem collectors because of very limited quantities and colors that were viewed more as strange rather than beautiful. This situation dramatically changed in 1987 when Russian Alexandrite-like Color Change Garnets were discovered in Tanzania’s Umba Valley. Since this time, Color Change Garnets have become increasingly coveted by gem collectors and jewelry connoisseurs alike. Historically, color change gems have been popular since the discovery of Alexandrite in the 19th century.
The Madagascan varieties generally display greens (including bluish greens) when viewed under sunlight, changing to raspberries (reddish purples) under candlelight. The Tanzanian varieties generally display khaki olive limes when viewed under sunlight, changing to orange crimson reds under candlelight. However, other color varieties of Color Change Garnet exist – in daylight their color ranges from shades of green, beige, brown, gray and blue (in hues more synonymous with Blue Spinel rather than Sapphire), but in incandescent light they appear a reddish or purplish/pink color. The color change can be intense and equal to the color change of top quality Alexandrite. As a result, Color Change Garnets can easily be mistaken for Alexandrite.
Discovered in the late 1990′s, Madagascan Color Change Garnet is from Bekily in southern Madagascar, while Tanzanian Color Change Garnet is today predominately sourced from Tunduru in Tanzania’s Ruvuma region. It is also found in some parts of the United States, Russia, Turkey and Sri Lanka (in very small quantities).
Color Change Garnets are not usually found in large sizes. According to one source, the largest known faceted Color Change Garnet weighed 9.5 carats. The most dramatic color changes in Color Change Garnets are due to high amounts of vanadium (in contrast to chromium which causes color change in Alexandrite), although chromium is responsible for the color change in some Color Change Garnets. The existence of additional coloring agents, such as manganese, can also cause some of the more delicate colors in this Garnet variety.
Demantoid Garnet
A favorite of the famous Russian goldsmith Karl Fabergé, Demantoid Garnet is one of the most desirable of all colored gemstones and extremely rare. Discovered in 1855 in the Russian central Ural Mountains at two alluvial deposits, it was first assumed to be Emerald, and even took the name “Uralian Emerald” until gemologists took a closer look. A color variety of Andradite Garnet, the name Demantoid originates from the old German word “demant” meaning “Diamond-like,” because of a luster and dispersion that yields a fire even higher than Diamonds!
Commonly known as “horsetail” inclusions, some Russian Demantoid Garnets have golden byssolite strands that form beautiful patterns similar to the tail of a horse. Demantoid Garnets with prominent horsetail inclusions are particularly coveted. While small scale mining reportedly recommenced in Russia in 1991, most Demantoid Garnets are sourced from relatively new deposits beneath the scorched desert sands of Namibia. , due to a fire greater than that of Diamonds, Demantoid Garnet is an absolute “must have” for any serious collector.
Hessonite Garnet
A variety of Grossular Garnet, Hessonite comes in two colors, golden and cinnamon (this variety is commonly known as the “Cinnamon Stone”). A perfectly colored Hessonite is a bright golden orange that resembles a combination of honey and orange with an internal fire. Some Hessonites have tints of red and brown.
Popular for thousands of years, the ancient Greeks and Romans used it in jewelry, cameos and intaglio (a figure cut into a gem so as to make the design depressed below the surface, whereas in a cameo the relief rises above the surface). Interestingly, its name comes from the Greek word “esson,” meaning inferior, because it is slightly softer than other Garnet varieties. However, please don’t be put off by the origin of its name. Hessonite is still durable and perfectly suited to jewelry.
Widely used in Vedic astrology, Hessonite is known as “Gomedha” in Hindi. The ancient Hindus believed that Hessonite was formed from the fingernails of the great demon Vala, which were scattered in the lakes of the East. Vedic astrologers believe that when set in gold, Hessonite is a powerful talisman that increases your lifespan and happiness.
Hessonite is common in the gem gravels of Sri Lanka and practically all Hessonite is obtained from this locality, although it is also found in Africa.
While the clearest gems are most prized, inclusions in Hessonite are common, with unique toffee-like streaks giving Hessonite an oily or even glasslike appearance.
Malaia Garnet
Discovered in the mid 1960′s in Tanzania’s Umba Valley, this red-orange to pink-orange variety of Garnet was originally thought to be Spessartite Garnet.
Actually a mixture of Pyrope, Almandine and Spessartite, Malaia Garnets are lively gems that exhibit sparkling red flashes. Once discovered not to be Spessartite, it aptly became known by the Swahili word “Malaia” meaning “outcast.”
Malaia Garnets are available in numerous shades of orange, ranging from soft peach to intense reddish orange.
Mali Garnet
Mali Garnet is one of the latest discoveries in the Garnet family. Mali Garnet is an attractive and very interesting rare mixture of Andradite and Grossular that was only discovered in late 1994 at the Sandaré Mine in Mali’s Kayes region (Diakon Arrondissement). Extremely rare, Mali Garnets are a bright, uniform light yellowish green color.
Mandarin, Tangerine & Spessartite Garnet
Mandarin and Tangerine Garnets are the intensely bright color varieties of the rare orange red Spessartite Garnet, also known as Spessartine.
Spessartite Garnet is named after its first discovery in Spessart, Bavaria in the mid 1800′s. Spessartite Garnet, once an extremely rare gem, is now enjoying a newfound popularity.
In 1991 Mandarin Garnets were discovered embedded in mica in northwest Namibia where the Kunene River borders Namibia and Angola. In 1994 new deposits were unearthed in southwest Nigeria. Soon after, Tanzania, the powerhouse of African gems, yielded deposits at the fabled gemstone mines of Arusha and Lelatema.
Although initially called “Kunene Spessartine” or “Hollandine,” the evocative names Mandarin Garnet and Tangerine Garnet were soon adopted.
Merelani Mint Garnet
Long regarded as a source of the finest colored gems, it is no surprise that Tanzania is home to some of the world’s most coveted Garnets. Displaying stunning mint greens, luster, sparkly brilliance and excellent durability, Merelani Mint Garnet is a relatively new rare gemstone whose popularity is only limited by its scarcity.
Named for its color and where it is mined, Merelani Mint Garnet was first discovered around 1998 in the same area as Tanzanite (Merelani Hills, Arusha region, Tanzania). Merelani Mint Garnet is basically a different hue of its better known relative, Tsavorite Garnet (Grossular Garnet). Extremely scarce, Merelani Mint Garnet is always relatively small in size (under 1 carat) and is usually included with bubbles and/or silk. Not surprisingly, when clean, Merelani Mint Garnet increases in value.
Formed in metasomatic conditions (the process by which the chemical composition of a rock is changed by interaction with fluids), it is typically extracted directly from metamorphic rocks and similar to Tanzanite, it is found in association with graphite.
Stunning green Garnets have historically always been in very high demand and Merelani Mint Garnet is coveted for a very good reason – few Garnets have such a brilliant appeal.
Mozambique Garnet
Originating in the east African nation they are named after, Mozambique Garnets are famed for their high quality and wonderfully warm, red colors.
Mozambique Garnet is a mixture of Pyrope and Almandine Garnet, similar in color to Rhodolite Garnet, but slightly redder and darker.
Pyrope Garnet
Hear the word “Garnet,” and what invariably comes to mind is the image of the deep red Pyrope Garnets belonging to the pyralspites family. Pyrope comes from the Greek word “pyropos,” meaning “fiery eyed.”
Fine Pyrope Garnets may be visually confused with dark rubies. It was the “fashion gem” of the 18th and 19th centuries and many Rubies of this period were later found to be Pyrope Garnets.
Rhodolite Garnet
The name “Rhodolite” is taken from the Greek “rho’don” and “lithos,” which literally translate to “rose stone.” Possessing a color reminiscent of the rhododendron flower, this name was first used in the late 19th century to describe Garnets discovered in North Carolina.
Unusually striking, Rhodolite is a naturally occurring blend of Almandine and Pyrope Garnet. While raspberry is the most prized color, Rhodolite is also found in shades of pink through lavender.
Rhodolite is typically found as water worn pebbles in alluvial deposits but it is also occasionally mined directly from host metamorphic rock. The most spectacular Rhodolite is mined in Sri Lanka, Zimbabwe, and from a relatively new deposit in the Kangala area of Tanzania that was discovered in 1987. Since then, gorgeous raspberry hued Rhodolite has been found in other regions of Tanzania including Ruvuma, Mtwara and Lindi.
Tough, durable, never enhanced and easily cleaned, Rhodolite is ideal for jewelry. Due to its bright transparent clarity, Rhodolite is often cut into fantasy shapes.
Star Garnet
A highly unusual form of Garnet is the rare four-rayed Almandine Star Garnet. While Almandine Garnets (also known as “Almandite”) are the most common variety of Garnets, those displaying the star are not at all common. Available in deep reds, Almandine Star Garnets are found in Nigeria and Tanzania.
Asterism or the star effect is a reflection effect that appears as two or more intersecting bands of light crossing the surface of a gem.
Tsavorite Garnet
For some the sixties swung, for gemologists they rocked. The decade which had most people looking to the sky for Lucy’s Diamonds had gemologists transfixed by a myriad of precious gemstones hailing from Africa’s arid savannas: Fancy Sapphires, Rubies, Tourmaline, Tanzanite, a plethora of gorgeous colored Garnets, among them a brilliant green Grossular Garnet, Tsavorite. Tsavorite, East Africa’s beautiful green gemstone is rightful heir to the title “the King of Garnets.” Some 40 years after its discovery, Tsavorite has comfortably established itself as one of the world’s most beautiful, precious and desirable gemstones. Tsavorite Garnet, comparable in scarcity to Demantoid Garnet, is extremely rare. In fact, it is so rare that it might be unavailable in future years.
First discovered in 1967 by the now legendary Scottish geologist, Campbell R. Bridges, Tsavorite has quickly found favor as a precious colored gem of choice. Bridges first discovered Tsavorite in Tanzania, but in those days getting an export license to take the gems out was impossible. Bridges, aided by the local Masai and Kikuyu tribesmen persisted in his search, but this time turned his attention to the neighboring country of Kenya. In 1971 Bridges discovered Tsavorite for a second time in Kenya’s Tsavo region. Life in Africa’s bush is dangerous and the Tsavo region is well known as the domain of man-eating lions and poachers. In order to protect himself from predators and brigands, Bridges was forced to live in a tree house. And as he didn’t want his treasure to be stolen, he cunningly used the locals’ fear of snakes by placing a python in among the Tsavorite rough.
Tsavorite eventually found its way to America where Henry Platt of Tiffany & Co. named the gemstone, basing its name on the famous Tsavo National Park in Kenya. Tsavorite took the world by storm and interest increased dramatically when in 1974 Tiffany’s started a special campaign promoting Tsavorite, making it well known in the US. International promotional campaigns followed and soon global demand for Tsavorite reached epic proportions.
While Tsavorite was once being mined in 40 different areas throughout Tanzania and Kenya, only four mining ventures are still producing commercial quantities. While some 50 deposits have been found in Kenya, Tanzania, Madagascar and even Zambia, only a handful of small mines are viable. This is because Tsavorite is notoriously difficult to mine, requiring a good understanding of geology. Seams suddenly disappear, giving no indication where to look next and its crystals are often found inside Quartz or Scapolite “potatoes” that must be cracked open to reveal the Tsavorite.
Tsavorite’s intense green colors, similar to that of fine Emeralds, are due to the presence of vanadium in the host rock. Like all Garnets, Tsavorite possesses few inclusions and its high refractive index results in a superb brilliance. While by no means an absolute, Kenyan Tsavorite generally possesses deeper color saturation than those from Tanzania.
Umbalite Garnet
Umbalite Garnet is an attractive light pinkish-purple Garnet that was first unearthed in Tanzania’s Umba Valley in 1978. A cocktail of Pyrope, Almandine, with small traces of Spessartite Garnet, production of this unusual gem material has been irregular and it is highly sought after by connoisseurs of fine gemstones.
Flourite
Jul 20th
FLUORITE
| FLUORITE | Comes in many colors |
| Origins | Brazil & India |
| Colors Found | Various |
| Family | Fluorite |
| Hardness | 4.00 |
| Refractive Index | 1.43 |
| Relative Density | 3.00 – 3.25 |
Feldspar
Jul 20th
FELDSPAR
| FELDSPAR | Optical effects |
| Origins | Brazil, China, India, Madagascar, Sri Lanka, Tanzania, Tibet & US |
| Colors Found | Various |
| Family | Feldspar |
| Hardness | 6.00 – 6.50 |
| Refractive Index | 1.51 – 1.57 |
| Relative Density | 2.56 – 2.75 |
While the Feldspar mineral family is relatively common with dozens of types distributed worldwide, gem quality crystals are scarce, coveted and spectacularly beautiful, often possessing rare optical effects such as adularescence, aventurescence and iridescence. Many Feldspar gems only occur in isolated deposits and are far rarer than better known gems such as Diamond, Ruby or Sapphire.
The name Feldspar comes from the German “feldt spat,” meaning “field stone.” So named, this is because when Feldspar weathers, it releases large amounts of plant nutrients, such as potassium, which enrich soil.
Just the facts
There are a wide variety of Feldspar gem types and some are confusingly similar in appearance and composition. A few Feldspar gems are closely related with only minor differences. As a result, there is some confusion and debate as to their exact classification. The various trade names are also often confusing, as the same name is often applied to gemstones that are completely different in appearance, origin and composition. Amazonite, Andesine, Labradorite, Moonstone, Oligoclase, Orthoclase, Sanidine and Sunstone are all members of the Feldspar family. The two main subgroups are the plagioclase group and the potassium group.
The plagioclase group of Feldspar includes most of the Feldspar gem types. It is also used as a general classification for gems that do not fit neatly into other classifications. The plagioclase types are distinguished based on their calcium and sodium content and ratio.
The potassium group of Feldspar includes Moonstone, Orthoclase and Sanidine. Unlike the plagioclase group, they share the same chemical composition and are distinguished by their crystal structure.
Emerald
Jul 20th
EMERALD
| EMERALD | May’s birthstone |
| Origins | Brazil, Colombia, Pakistan, Siberia, Zambia & Zimbabwe |
| Colors Found | Green |
| Family | Beryl |
| Hardness | 7.50 – 8.00 |
| Refractive Index | 1.56 – 1.60 |
| Relative Density | 2.67 – 2.78 |
Diopside
Jul 20th
DIOPSIDE
| DIOPSIDE | Perfect cleavage in two directions |
| Origins | India & Russia |
| Colors Found | Blue, brown, colorless, green, gray, purple & white |
| Family | Pyroxene |
| Hardness | 5.00 – 6.00 |
| Refractive Index | 1.66 – 1.73 |
| Relative Density | 3.22 – 3.38 |
Diopside was named in 1800 from the Greek word “dis” meaning double and “opsis” meaning vision, in reference to the pleochroism (different colors displayed when viewed from different angles) found in its prismatic form.
Legends and lore
Diopside is also called the “crying gemstone,” because it is believed by crystal healers to heal trauma by bringing forth cleansing tears.
Diopside is assumed to bring creativity to the wearer and is said to be related to love and commitment. Crystal healers believe that, when worn close to the chest (such as in a pendant), Diopside can benefit the heart, lungs and circulation.
Just the facts
Diopside is a calcium magnesium silicate found in metamorphosed impure limestone, meteorites and igneous basalts. Diopside has been previously named Schefferite, White Schefferite and Zinc-Schefferite.
Diopside is the magnesium-rich member of the “monoclinic-pyroxene series” that occurs when ions (and magnesium) freely substitute each other.
Diopside crystals have a perfect cleavage in two directions, are often twinned and are short and columnar, but with an uneven fracture. Mineralogists easily recognize Diopside in the field by its crystals, its color, its fracture, its cleavage and its white or white-green streak.
Diopside is typically white, blue, purple, brown, green, colorless and gray with a glassy luster. The less common shades are yellowish brown and greenish brown.
Varieties of Diopside include “Russian Diopside” (a chromium-rich Diopside known for its deep green color), “Violan” (a rare blue variety found in Italy), “Cat’s Eye Diopside” (green with the effect due to inclusions of rutile needles), “Malacolite” (a white colored variety), “Salaite” (an iron variety), “Dekalbite” (an iron-free variety) and “Star Diopside” (a star with four rays).
Gem quality Diopside is mined in Siberia, Italy, Sri Lanka, Brazil, Madagascar, South Africa and Pakistan. Uzbekistan, located between Tajikistan and Turkmenistan, is becoming an important locality for a variety of Russian Diopside called Tashmarine. This variety has a slightly lower chromium content than the Siberian material, a less saturated color and can display gray or brown tones. India has the largest deposits of Cat’s Eye or Star Diopside. The color of African Diopside tends to be a more yellowish color similar to Peridot.
Russian Diopside
Russian Diopside has a beautiful rich green color, similar to that of fine Emeralds or the rarest Tsavorite Garnets. Colored by chromium, Russian Diopside is also known as Chrome Diopside and Imperial Diopside. While there is little historical information regarding this rare gem, some claim it is beneficial for health, relationships, spirituality and financial success.
One major reason Russian Diopside is relatively unknown is that it has only recently become available in sizable commercial quantities. Interestingly, a company recently trademarked the name “Vertelite” for Russian Diopside. The name was created from “verte,” the Latin word for green and “lite,” the Latin word for tone. Russian Diopside displays strong birefringence and has a vitreous luster. It is mostly available in small sizes, with large carat weights hard to find.
Russian Diopside is mostly mined in Yakutia, Siberia. Yakutia territory is located in the extreme north of Asia and is considered the coldest place in the northern hemisphere. Mining is limited due to cold winters lasting for nine months; hence this gem is seasonal and it has been difficult to maintain a steady supply. Interestingly, Yakutia is also the source of 99% of all Russian Diamonds. Russian Diopside is a Diamond mine indicator mineral and is sometimes found as an inclusion inside Diamonds. The liberalization of the economy of the former Soviet Union has made Russian Diopside more available than ever before.
Star Diopside
Star Diopside is also known as “Black Star Diopside” because of its blackish color. Asterism, or the star effect, is a reflection that appears as two or more intersecting bands of light across the surface of a gem.
Star Diopside has four rays, two of which are straight, while the other two are not at right angles to the first pair.
Star Diopside is mainly mined in India and is generally a black or blackish green color.
Cat’s Eye Diopside
A green variety of Diopside, chatoyancy or the cat’s eye effect is a reflection that appears as a single bright band of light across the surface of a gemstone. Cat’s Eye Diopside is mainly mined in India.
Violan
Violan is light blue to purple in color due to the presence of large amounts of manganese. Violan is mined mainly in Italy.
Diamond
Jul 20th
DIAMOND
| DIAMOND | April’s birthstone |
| Origins | Africa |
| Colors Found | Various |
| Family | Carbon |
| Hardness | 10.00 |
| Refractive Index | 2.41 – 2.42 |
| Relative Density | 3.53 |
The word Diamond comes from the Greek word “adamas,” meaning unconquerable or invincible.
“Diamonds are forever,” sang Shirley Bassey, while Marilyn insisted they were “a girl’s best friend.” Celebrated in song, over the last century Diamond (April’s birthstone) has become the most marketed of gemstones.
Legends and lore
The myths and facts associated with the Diamond transcend cultures and continents.
The world’s first known reference to this gemstone comes from an Indian Sanskrit manuscript, the “Arthsastra” (which translates as “The Lesson of Profit”) written by Kautiliya, a minister to Chandragupta of the Mauryan Dynasty (322 BC – 185 BC).
Plato wrote about Diamonds as living beings, embodying celestial spirits.
Roman literature makes its first distinct mention of Diamonds only in the 1st century AD, in reference to the alluvial Diamonds found in India.
The ancient Greeks and Romans believed they were tears of the gods and splinters from falling stars. Cupid’s arrows were supposed to be tipped with Diamonds, thus having a magic that nothing else can equal.
The Hindus believed that Diamonds were created when bolts of lightning struck rocks. They even placed them in the eyes of some of their statues.
Jewish high priests turned to Diamonds to decide the innocence or guilt of the accused. A Diamond held before a guilty person was supposed to dull and darken, while a Diamond held before an innocent person glowed with increasing brilliance.
The Romans wore Diamonds because they were thought to possess broad magical powers over life’s troubles, being able to give to the wearer strength, invincibility, bravery and courage during battle.
Kings of antiquity led the battles wearing heavy leather breastplates studded with Diamonds and other precious gems because it was believed that Diamonds possessed god-given magical qualities and powers far beyond the understanding of humankind. Thus, warriors stayed clear of kings and those who were fortunate enough to have the magical Diamonds in their breastplates.
An act of Louis IX of France (1214-1270) established a sumptuary law reserving Diamonds for the King, indicating the rarity and value of this gem.
Until the 14th century only kings could wear Diamonds, because they stood for strength, courage and invincibility. Small numbers of Diamonds began appearing in the 14th century in European regalia and jewelry, set mainly as an accent among Pearls. But the possession of extraordinarily large and noble Diamonds was always the privilege of royal houses and rich families. As an example, the imperial crown of the Russian Tsarina Catherine the Second (1729-1796) was mounted with 4,936 sparkling Diamonds.
In the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, every ring set with a precious gem was not considered as much a piece of jewelry, but more as an amulet that bestowed magical powers upon its wearer. When set in gold and worn on the left side, it was believed that Diamonds held the power to drive away nightmares, to ward off devils and phantoms, and soothe savage beasts. A house or garden touched at each corner with a Diamond was supposed to be protected from lightning, storms and blight. Diamonds were also supposed to impart virtue, generosity and even to calm the mentally ill.
Not only was it commonly believed that Diamonds could bring luck and success, but also that they could counter the effects of astrological events.
Just the facts
As a gemstone lover, you may have heard about the 4 C’s related to valuing gemstones and in particular, Diamonds. While other factors such as origin sometimes need to be taken into consideration when valuing colored gemstones, below is a basic guide to the four C’s that Diamond professionals and connoisseurs the world over rely on: cut, color, clarity and carat weight.
Color
Colorless and near-colorless Diamonds are rare, beautiful and highly prized among connoisseurs. To the untrained eye, most Diamonds look white. However, to the professional there are small differences in the degrees of whiteness seen.
Cut
With Round Brilliant cut Diamonds accounting for over 80% of Diamond sales worldwide, ask anyone “What shape is a Diamond?” and they will probably say round. Despite this shape, there are many other beautiful Diamond cuts that warrant serious consideration. The eight most popular Diamond cuts are Emerald cut, Heart cut, Marquise cut, Oval cut, Round Brilliant cut, Pear cut, Princess cut and Radiant cut.
Unlike colored gemstones, Diamonds are cut, shaped and proportioned to a remarkably uniform ideal. In 1919, the Russian mathematical genius Marcel Tolkowsky, a member of a large and powerful Diamond family, published his opinions of what Diamond proportions result in the optimum balance of brilliance and fire.
Carat weight
As mentioned above, unlike colored gemstones, Diamonds are cut to a uniform ideal for maximum brilliance (white light reflections), fire (flashes of color) and scintillation (play of light). With this uniform cutting and proportions, we can very conveniently and accurately equate Diamond carat size with their millimeter size.
Round Brilliant Cut Diamond
| 1 millimeter | 0.01 carat | 6.0 millimeter | 0.75 carat |
| 2 millimeter | 0.03 carat | 6.5 millimeter | 1.00 carat |
| 3 millimeter | 0.10 carat | 7.0 millimeter | 1.25 carat |
| 4 millimeter | 0.25 carat | 7.5 millimeter | 1.65 carat |
| 5 millimeter | 0.50 carat |
Clarity
Inclusions are tiny natural features within the body of a Diamond. Nearly all gemstones contain some inclusions, however many are microscopic and can only be seen under magnification. While the prevalence and acceptability of inclusions varies from gemstone to gemstone, in general, if they do not interfere with the beauty of a gemstone, they are not only accepted, but are also a fascinating hallmark of authenticity that records a gem’s natural relationship with the earth.
What is the GIA Diamond Grading System?
Developed by the GIA (Gemological Institute of America), this system is now commonplace for the retailing of Diamonds across the globe and consists of a Diamond Clarity Scale and a Diamond Color Scale.
GIA Diamond Clarity Scale
(FL) FLAWLESS: Shows no inclusions or blemishes of any sort under 10X magnification when observed by an experienced grader.
(IF) INTERNALLY FLAWLESS: Has no inclusions when examined by an experienced grader using 10X magnification, but will have some minor surface blemishes.
(VVS1 and VVS2) VERY VERY SLIGHTLY INCLUDED: Contains minute inclusions that are difficult even for experienced graders to see under 10X magnification.
(VS1 and VS2) VERY SLIGHTLY INCLUDED: Contains minute inclusions such as small crystals, clouds or feathers when observed with effort under 10X magnification.
(SI1, SI2 and SI3) SLIGHTLY INCLUDED: Contains inclusions (clouds, included crystals, knots, cavities and feathers) that are noticeable to an experienced grader under 10X magnification. The SI3 Diamond clarity grade was created because many in the Diamond industry felt that there was too wide a gap between SI2 and SI1. After the EGL (European Gemological Laboratory) started issuing certificates with the SI3 grade, the Rapaport Diamond Report (the definitive price guide for Diamonds) added SI3 to its price list.
(I1, I2 and I3) INCLUDED: Contains inclusions (possibly large feathers or large included crystals) that are obvious under 10X magnification.
(PK) PIQUE: Inclusions easily visible to the naked eye.
GIA Diamond Color Scale
Prior to the introduction of the GIA grading system, the letters A, B and C were used to grade Diamonds. As the GIA wanted a fresh start, they decided to begin with the letter D.
D, E, F. These purest tints are rare and comparatively expensive. Their rare color assigns them a higher market price.
G, H, I. Often offering much better value, to the untrained eye they seem the exact same color as the more expensive D, E and F colors.
J, K, L. Discounted for their barely perceptible yellowish tints, Diamonds in this range offer excellent value.
M – Z. Further discounted for their more distinct yellow hues.
Z+. Diamonds whose color intensity is outside the normal range are called “Fancy Colors” and come in about any color you can imagine (e.g., pink, red, green, purple, black, blue, yellow and more).
Pairs and Suites
Pairs or suites of Diamonds matched for color, clarity and cut are more highly valued per carat or per gem than single Diamonds of the same quality. Given the rarity of many Diamonds, a matching set is disproportionately hard to find and thus commands a higher per carat price than if each of the Diamonds from the suite were sold separately.
Colored Diamonds
Most Colored Diamonds found in jewelry today are treated. The process known as color enhancement involves using clean Diamonds and modifying their color with a combination of electron bombardment and heat using safe electron-accelerator technology. This enhancement exactly duplicates the “natural process” Colored Diamonds undergo during their formation within the earth. All color enhanced Diamonds sold by GemsTV are treated in the US to certified international standards.
Unlike some other Diamond treatments, Color Enhanced Diamonds are treated to fulfill preferences for vivid color only; this coloring technique does not try to hide or dissipate flaws. The myriad of popular Diamond colors produced using this technology includes blue, green, red, orange, yellow, pink, purple and black. The real beauty and popularity of these Diamonds lies in the fact that they combine both the rich color hues of colored gems such as Rubies and Sapphires, with the unforgettable brilliance and sparkle of a Diamond. In other words, they virtually become “two gems in one.”
What are Conflict Diamonds?
A Conflict Diamond (also called a Blood Diamond) is a Diamond mined in a war zone and sold, usually clandestinely, in order to finance an insurgent or invading army’s war efforts. The Kimberley Process is a global system to eradicate Conflict Diamonds and has two parts:
- A government-regulated system adopted in 2000 by more than 40 countries, the United Nations, and the Diamond industry to control the export and import of rough Diamonds across borders. It requires that rough Diamonds mined after January 1, 2003 be shipped in tamper-resistant containers and accompanied by government-validated Kimberley Process Certificates. Only participating countries may legitimately export rough Diamonds and only to co-participating countries.
- To strengthen the government program, the international Diamond and jewelry industry represented by the World Diamond Council (WDC) initiated and committed to a voluntary system of warranties. It requires that every time Diamonds (rough, polished or Diamond jewelry) change hands, the seller will affirm on the invoice that the Diamonds have been purchased through authorized channels not involved in funding conflict.
Citrine
Jul 20th
CITRINE
| CITRINE | November’s birthstone |
| Origins | Brazil, Madagascar, Mozambique, Tanzania, Uruguay & Zambia |
| Colors Found | Shades of yellow |
| Family | Quartz |
| Hardness | 7.00 |
| Refractive Index | 1.54 – 1.55 |
| Relative Density | 2.65 |
Citrine is the yellow variety of macrocrystalline Quartz that takes its name from “citron,” the French word for lemon. Citrine is a beautiful transparent gemstone and one of November’s birthstones.
Legends and lore
Citrine was first used in jewelry in Greece during the Hellenistic period (end of the 4th to the end of the 1st century BC).
The first use of Citrine by the Romans was in intaglios (a gem carved in negative relief) and cabochons in the first centuries after the birth of Christ.
In antiquity, Citrine was believed to be the gemstone of happiness and used as a protective talisman against evil thoughts.
Among its many historic medicinal uses, Citrine was believed to aid digestion, remove toxins from the body (Citrine was once commonly used as a charm against snakebites and venomous reptiles), provide protection against the plague and bad skin, and to be useful in the treatment of depression, constipation and diabetes.
Among crystal healers, Citrine is said to be especially useful in stimulating one’s mental capacities, enhancing creativity and intuition and bolstering one’s self-confidence. It is also said to give emotional control while making one more alert. Citrine is also said to be very helpful in assisting one to acquire and maintain wealth.
Just the facts
Citrine occurs naturally in proximity to Amethyst and is a related Quartz mineral. The color of Citrine is due to small amounts (approximately 40 parts per million) of iron in the crystal structure of Quartz.
Citrine ranges in color from pastel lemon yellow to golden yellow to mandarin orange and “Madeira” red, after the color of the wine. Traditionally, the “Madeira” shades were more coveted, but these days many people prefer Citrine’s brighter lemon tones. Most of the Citrine mined today comes from Uruguay, Brazil and many African nations including Madagascar. Citrine can be easily confused with Topaz and has even been called “Topaz Quartz.”
Multi Color Citrine beautifully melds the bright golden yellows of Citrine with the ice whites of White Quartz in one gem. Multi Color Citrine occurs because of environmental changes during formation. At different times, the color-causing element (iron) was incorporated into the crystal, causing different color layers. Purposely cut to showcase this feature, Multi Color Citrine is generally judged by the balanced contrast between its colors. Cutting the gem so both colors show is sometimes challenging for cutters. While notoriously difficult to cut consistently, a well cut multicolored gem is a real delight.
Chrysoprase
Jul 20th
CHRYSOPRASE
| CHRYSOPRASE | Mentioned in the Bible |
| Origins | Australia, Brazil, Madagascar, Russia, South Africa, Tanzania & US |
| Colors Found | Apple green |
| Family | Chalcedony Quartz |
| Hardness | 6.50 – 7.00 |
| Refractive Index | 1.53 – 1.54 |
| Relative Density | 2.58 – 2.64 |
Chrysoprase’s name comes from the Greek words “chrysos,” meaning gold and “prason,” meaning leek, due to its color similarities with the vegetable.
One of the most coveted varieties of Chalcedony Quartz, Chrysoprase is prized for its apple green color and rarity.
Legends and lore
Chrysoprase was used by the Greeks, Romans and Egyptians in jewelry and other ornamental objects. In ancient Egyptian jewelry, Chrysoprase was often set together with Lapis Lazuli.
Chrysoprase is mentioned in the Bible as being one of the twelve gemstones set in the foundations of the city walls of Jerusalem (Revelations 21:19) and is the symbol of the Apostle St. Thaddeus.
Chrysoprase was very popular in the 14th century when the Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV used it to decorate chapels including the Chapel of Saint Wenceslas in Prague.
Chrysoprase was also a favorite gem of Frederick the Great of Prussia and Queen Anne of England.
Chrysoprase is believed by crystal healers to increase grace and inner equilibrium.
Just the facts
Chrysoprase can vary in color from yellowish green to apple green and grass green depending on the levels of hydrated silicates and nickel oxides present in the gem.
Because of its semi-opaque green color, Chrysoprase was often mistaken for Imperial Jade (Jadeite).
Other types of green Chalcedony include Prase (a very rare less vivid green Chalcedony found in eastern Europe and in Delaware and Pennsylvania) and Mtorolite (a variety of green Chalcedony colored by chromium found in Zimbabwe).
Chrysoberyl
Jul 20th
CHRYSOBERYL
| CHRYSOBERYL | Chatoyancy |
| Origins | Brazil, India, Madagascar Russia, Sri Lanka, Tanzania, Zambia & Zimbabwe |
| Colors Found | Brown, yellow & yellowish green |
| Family | Chrysoberyl |
| Hardness | 8.50 |
| Refractive Index | 1.74 – 1.76 |
| Relative Density | 3.70 – 3.78 |
The gem of springtime, youth and innocence, the name Chrysoberyl is derived from the Greek words for golden, “chryso,” and green gemstone, “Beryl.”
Its rarest variety, Alexandrite (the color change variety of Chrysoberyl), is quite well known, although the number of people who have heard of Alexandrite is probably 100 times greater than the number who have ever seen one, and 1,000 times greater than the number who have ever owned one.
Legends and lore
Said to bring peace of mind and increase self-confidence, Chrysoberyl also promotes kindness, generosity, benevolence, hope, optimism, renewal, new beginnings, compassion and forgiveness.
Just the facts
When cut, Chrysoberyl is an extremely brilliant gem, ideal for everyday wear and is rapidly gaining in popularity.
Displaying attractive golden lemons, limes, greens, oranges and chocolates, together with an extreme brilliance, Chrysoberyl is exceptionally tough, making it ideal for everyday wear. The color in yellow Chrysoberyl is due to iron trace elements.
Cat’s Eye Chrysoberyl is a translucent gem ranging in color from a honey yellow or honey chocolate to yellowish green to apple green.
It is known for its reflected light effect called chatoyancy (cat’s eye). This is achieved by cutting gems that have small, parallel “silk” inclusions into cabochons. As the gem is rotated, it exhibits a distinct, silvery white line across its dome that seems to open and close like a cat’s eye. It is so coveted that if you just mention cat’s eye, it is assumed to be in reference to Cat’s Eye Chrysoberyl.
Exceptional quality Chrysoberyl has recently been unearthed in Magara, Tanzania, a region made famous by Tanzanite and Tsavorite.
Chalcedony
Jul 20th
CHALCEDONY
| CHALCEDONY | Waxy lustre |
| Origins | Brazil, India, Madagascar, Mexico, South Africa, Tanzania & US |
| Colors Found | Black, blue, brown, buff, green, gray, red, tan, white & yellow |
| Family | Quartz |
| Hardness | 6.50 – 7.00 |
| Refractive Index | 1.53 – 1.54 |
| Relative Density | 2.58 – 2.64 |
Chalcedony’s (also spelled Calcedony, it is correctly pronounced as “Kal-ced-on-ee” and is the catchall term for cryptocrystalline Quartz) name is derived from Chalcedon or Calchedon, an ancient port of Bithynia, near present day Istanbul, Turkey.
It has a waxy luster and appears in a great variety of colors including blue, white, buff, tan, green, red, gray, black, yellow or brown. Different colored varieties of Chalcedony have individual names including Agate (banded), Bloodstone (green with red spots), Chalcedony (blue to brownish blue), Chrysoprase (apple green), Carnelian (orange to red), Flint (dull gray to black), Jasper (spotted red, yellow, brown or green) and Sard (light to dark brown).
Legends and lore
The Romans prized Chalcedony as seals, and in the New Testament (Revelations 21:19) Chalcedony is one of the twelve gemstones set in the foundations of the city walls of Jerusalem. As compiled by Andreas, Bishop of Caesurae, one of the earliest writers to tie the Apostles with the symbolism of the twelve gems of Jerusalem, Chalcedony represented the Apostle St. Andrew.
Chalcedony was used during the Renaissance as a magic amulet to promote health and safety.
Chalcedony is one of the gemstones used in commesso or Florentine mosaic. Developed in Florence in the late 16th century, commesso is a technique of fashioning pictures with thin, cut-to-shape pieces of brightly colored gems.
Just the facts
Quartz gemstones are commonly separated into two groups based on the size of their individual crystals. The macrocrystalline Quartz (large crystal) group includes many popular gemstones such as Amethyst, Ametrine, Citrine and Green Amethyst (Prasiolite). Cryptocrystalline Quartz includes species whose individual crystals are too small to be easily distinguished. Apart from being a variety within the group, Chalcedony is also a catchall term to describe cryptocrystalline Quartz and includes many gems that have been coveted since antiquity.
Normally faceted as a cabochon it is often used to great effect in both necklaces and bracelets.
Carnelian
Jul 20th
CARNELIAN
| CARNELIAN | Mentioned in the Bible |
| Origins | Brazil, India, Madagascar Sri Lanka & Uruguny |
| Colors Found | Orange to red |
| Family | Chalcedony Quartz |
| Hardness | 6.50 – 7.00 |
| Refractive Index | 1.53 – 1.54 |
| Relative Density | 2.58 – 2.64 |
Also known as Sadoine or Mecca Stone and sometimes spelled Cornelian, the name is derived from the Latin world for flesh, “carne,” due to its orangey red color.
Legends and lore
Carnelian has been an important gem in nearly every great civilization. From the royalty of Ur (the Mesopotamian capital of pre-biblical times), to Napoleon (he returned from his Egyptian campaign with a huge octagonal Carnelian) and Tibetan Buddhists, Carnelian has been revered for its healing, spiritual and creative qualities.
A deeply religious gem, Carnelian was used by the Egyptian goddess Isis to protect the dead on their journey through the afterlife.
Carnelian is mentioned in the Bible as being one of the “stones of fire” (Ezekiel 28:13-16) given to Moses for the breastplate of Aaron (Exodus 28:15-30) and is also one of the twelve gemstones set in the foundations of the city walls of Jerusalem (Revelations 21:19). It is the symbol of the Apostle Philip.
Popular in ancient Greece and Rome for intaglio (a gem carved in negative relief) signet rings, the Romans symbolically associated dark colored Carnelian with men and light colored Carnelian with women.
Muhammad’s seal was an engraved Carnelian set in a silver ring.
To this day, Buddhists in China, India and Tibet believe in the protective powers of Carnelian and often follow the Egyptian practice of setting the gem with Turquoise and Lapis Lazuli for enhanced power.
Just the facts
Carnelian is a translucent orange to red variety of Chalcedony. Uniformly colored cryptocrystalline Quartz, its red tints are caused by iron oxide trace elements.
Beryl
Jul 20th
BERYL
| BERYL | Perfect, prismatic hexagon crystals |
| Origins | Afghanistan, Brazil, Colombia, Pakistan, South Africa & Tanzania |
| Colors Found | Various |
| Family | Beryl |
| Hardness | 7.50 – 8.00 |
| Refractive Index | 1.56 – 1.60 |
| Relative Density | 2.66 – 2.87 |
The name Beryl is from the ancient Greek “beryllos” for the precious blue-green color of sea water. This was originally applied to all green gemstones, but later used only for Beryl. Some scholars believe the word Beryl is related to the ancient trading city of Belur or perhaps has ancient Indian origins (being derived from the old Hindi word “velurya” or the Sanskrit word “vaidurya”).
As an allochromatic gem, when absolutely pure Beryl is totally devoid of color. Small amounts of metallic elements can be present in the crystal structure, giving rise to many color variations. Aquamarine, Bixbite, Emerald, Fire Beryl™ – Goshenite and Heliodor are all members of the Beryl family.
Just the facts
Gemstone color varieties that belong to Beryl with specific names are listed below. All other colors of Beryl are simply referred to by their color (e.g., Yellow Beryl).
| Aquamarine | Pastel greenish blue to blue |
| Bixbite | Red |
| Emerald | Green |
| Fire Beryl™ (Goshenite) | Colorless |
| Hardness | Yellowish green |
| Morganite | Pastel pink to salmon |
Beryl is famous for its perfect, six-sided prismatic hexagon crystals that usually occur individually. These are occasionally enormous and some 26-foot, well-crystallized examples are known to have existed. Understandably, only very small amounts of these enormous crystals are of a sufficient quality to be used in jewelry.
All Beryl varieties can be faceted into various gem cuts, and some Beryl displays phenomena including asterism (star effect), chatoyancy (cat’s eye effect) and an unusual effect in Emerald called trapichism.
Aventurine
Jul 20th
AVENTURINE
| AVENTURINE | Aventurescence |
| Origins | Brazil, India & US |
| Colors Found | Blue, brown, creamy green, green & peach |
| Family | Quartz |
| Hardness | 7.00 |
| Refractive Index | 1.54 – 1.55 |
| Relative Density | 2.64 – 2.69 |
Aventurine’s name is derived from an accident. During the 18th century, Venetian glass workers were preparing molten glass when copper filings accidentally fell into the batch, producing glass with sparkles. The name Aventurine comes from the Italian “a ventura” which means “by chance.” But make no mistake, Aventurine is certainly not glass, it is actually a much sought after member of the Chalcedony Quartz family.
Legends and lore
Aventurine has been used as a lucky talisman and is a popular gem for gamblers.
Legends say that it is an all-purpose healer, used to reduce stress, develop confidence and imagination, and improve prosperity. An ancient legend from Tibet tells of its use to help nearsightedness and to improve the wearer’s creativity.
Many crystal healers believe that Aventurine has the capacity to calm a troubled spirit, balance emotions and bring an inner peace. It is also believed to enhance leadership qualities allowing the wearer to act decisively, with strong intuitive power.
Just the facts
Aventurine is a Chalcedony that contains small inclusions of one of several shiny minerals which give the gem a glistening effect. The glistening effect of Aventurine is known as “aventurescence.” The color of the aventurescence depends on the mineral included in the gem. Mica inclusions give the gem a yellow or silver glitter or sheen. Goethite and Hematite inclusions give the gem a red or gray glitter or sheen. Fuschite inclusions give the gem a green sheen.
Aventurine ranges in color from green, peach, brown, blue and creamy green. If a color is not stated with the word Aventurine, it is usually assumed to be green. In the past, Green Aventurine has been miscalled “Indian Jade.”
Aquamarine
Jul 20th
AQUAMARINE
| AQUAMARINE | March’s birthstone |
| Origins | Brazil, Madagascar, Mozambique, Namibia, Nigeria, Tanzania & Zambia |
| Colors Found | Pastel blue to bluish green |
| Family | Beryl |
| Hardness | 7.50 – 8.00 |
| Refractive Index | 1.56 – 1.60 |
| Relative Density | 2.68 – 2.74 |
Symbolizing the near perfect clarity and transparency of the ocean, the sheer beauty of Aquamarine, with its wonderful color and fantastic clarity, makes it popular with both the collector and the wearer of fine jewelry. It will come as no surprise that its name was derived from the Latin words for “water of the sea.”
Blue, the world’s most popular color, is famous for its calming effect, and out of all the blues available none match the serenity found in Aquamarine. Aquamarine embodies all that is natural. Aquamarine, the sparkling birthstone for March, ranges from pastel blue to light green, its tones reminiscent of an invigorating sea breeze.
Legends and lore
Since antiquity, Aquamarine has been seen as a gemstone of great vision, its crystals often being used as eyes in the creation of statues that symbolize power and wisdom. According to legend, any man or woman that set eyes on these statues became a person of great wisdom, harnessing the ability to see into the future. On occasions, these statues were placed in strategic positions near the coastline where they could calm the wrath of the god Poseidon, thus ensuring the safe return of those on ships at sea.
Aquamarine has long been associated with its ability to capture oceanic energy. When amulets made of Aquamarine were worn, sailors believed that unmatched bravery would be instilled in their souls. These fishermen’s friends accompanied their owners while out on the high seas, and in the event of a storm, were tossed overboard to placate Poseidon’s anger. Interestingly, Thai culture contains a common belief that Aquamarine can ward off seasickness and prevent wearers from drowning. Because of its association with the sea, Aquamarine is considered to be a gemstone of purification and cleansing that washes the mind with fresh clear thoughts and promotes self-expression. Its calming effects make it a popular gemstone for those who practice meditation, as it is also believed to eradicate fears and phobias.
Just the facts
Colored by trace amounts of iron, Aquamarine is a member of the Beryl family whose members also include Emerald, Bixbite, Goshenite, Heliodor and Morganite. The color ranges depending on the relative concentrations and location of iron within the Beryl crystal structure. While noted for its excellent clarity, inclusions are more prevalent (and accepted) in the more intense hues.
Brazil has been the world’s major supplier of Aquamarine for decades. The famous Marambaia area is one of the most important sources of fine Aquamarine in the world. Today however, several African nations, including Nigeria, Mozambique, Zambia and Madagascar provide an equal, if not greater supply of similarly beautiful examples. The different shades of Aquamarine are distinguished by their own names. “Santa Maria” is the name of the rare, intensely deep blue Aquamarine found in the Santa Maria de Itabira mines of Brazil. Since 1991, very similar colors have also been found in certain mines in Africa, especially in Mozambique, where they have come to be known as “Santa Maria Africana.”
Another Brazilian beauty is the deep blue “Espirito Santo,” coming from the Brazilian state of Espirito Santo. Another beautifully colored variety has taken its name from a 1954 Brazilian beauty queen, “Martha Rocha.”
Recognized as a gem-producing country since Portuguese colonial times, Mozambique is increasingly becoming more visible in the global gem community, primarily due to its excellent quality Aquamarines. Mozambique governmental poverty eradication policies have been key factors in the development of the mining industry, creating conditions for prospecting projects to take place at a national level.
Apatite
Jul 20th
APATITE
| APATITE | Pleochroism |
| Origins | Brazil, Madagascar, Mexico, Mozambique & Sri Lanka |
| Colors Found | Blue, green, violet, yellow & yellowish green |
| Family | Apatite |
| Hardness | 5.00 |
| Refractive Index | 1.62 – 1.65 |
| Relative Density | 3.16 – 3.23 |
While it sounds like it’s hungry, it’s actually trying to fool you! The name Apatite comes from the Greek word “apatao,” meaning “to deceive,” as Apatite has often been confused with gems such as Paraiba Tourmaline, Peridot (Olivine) and Beryl. Ironically, the phosphates in bones and teeth of all vertebrate animals are members of the Apatite group, so the hunger connection is quite appropriate after all!
Legends and lore
Apatite is said to enhance one’s insight, learning abilities and creativity, and to give increased self-confidence. It also is said to help achieve deeper states of meditation. Using Apatite is said to facilitate the desired results when working with other crystals. Apatite is also believed by crystal healers to be useful to help improve one’s coordination, to strengthen muscles, help suppress hunger and to ease hypertension.
Just the facts
Apatite is actually three different minerals depending on the predominance of either fluorine, chlorine or the hydroxyl group: calcium (fluoro, chloro, hydroxyl) phosphate. These ions can freely substitute in the crystal lattice and all three are usually present in every specimen although some specimens are almost 100% pure in one group. Gem quality Apatite is rare, particularly over 1 carat. The color of Apatite is often due to the presence of rare earth elements. It comes in many colors, including green, yellow, blue, violet, and a yellow-green variety, originally mined in Spain, commonly called “asparagus stone” because of its similarity in color to the vegetable. Cat’s Eye Apatite is also known to exist.
While Apatite wasn’t unearthed in Madagascar until 1995, the French began working the Fort Dauphin area in the 1930′s after shepherds found some gems. Located in the southeast of Madagascar, practically at the end of the world, Fort Dauphin was established in 1642 and abandoned in 1674 following an 18-month siege by Antanosy tribesmen. It is believed that the famed pirate republic of Libertalia was later established here. The recent finds of Apatite in Madagascar have added to the popularity of this gem. Exhibiting excellent saturation, Madagascan Apatite’s colors range from neon “Emerald” greens (as typified by our Fort Dauphin Apatite) to neon “Paraiba” blues.